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Elevation: 800 ft
GPS: 43.8021, -71.8367
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,650,173 total · 17,171/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

Description Suggest change

Rumney is one of the premier sport climbing destinations in the country. This area has become a focal point of hard sport climbing, with climbers from all over the world visiting during the fall season.

Numerous crags dot the hillside of Rattlesnake Mountain above the sleepy town of Rumney, New Hampshire. Each crag is distinct in character but similar in rock type: schist. It is the rock that sets Rumney apart. The schist is reminiscent to wood, as the rock crystals form a definite "grain."

While many sport climbing areas climb walls, the routes at Rumney climb features—be they aretes, grooves, dikes, corners, or cracks. Therefore, the lines feel more defined than at other climbing areas.

Also, unlike many other sport climbing areas, Rumney offers quality climbs at all grades. From 5.3 to 5.15a, the visiting climber can surely find a challenging and engaging route. Add a supportive and positive local scene, incredible fall colors, and well-equipped routes, and Rumney ranks among the best sport crags on earth.

For more information check out the Rumney Climbers Association web site: climbrumney.com/

Getting There Suggest change

Interstate 93 is the main north/south artery in New Hampshire. From all points north or south. Take 93 to exit 26. Follow Rt 25 West for a few miles following signs for the town of Rumney. You will go through a couple sets of lights, then a rotary, and finally 2 blinking yellow lights. At the second blinking light turn right on to Main st. In less than a mile you will cross a bridge and be in "downtown" Rumney (a small New England village. Please be courteous and drive slowly) Here you turn left on to Buffalo Rd. The "Rumney Rocks" parking area will be on your right in about a mile.

From points west, take Interstate 91 to Highway 25. Head east on this and follow signs to Rumney. From points east, get yourself to 93 and refer to above directions from there.

The cliffs are complex and many. Ward Smith's guidebook for Rumney is a must.

Do not park along the road! It is illegal, you may get fined and towed and it really aggravates the locals. Carpool from a meeting spot as much as possible and have alternative plans for if the lots are full (Head up to Waterville?)

Winter Climbing

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For descriptions of Rumney's popular ice routes, see Rumney Ice Climbs.

Concerns

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PARKING: There are three parking lots at Rumney: the big lot right below Parking Lot Wall and the Meadows, the small lot a quarter mile down the road closer to Main Cliff, and a third newer lot another ~mile down the road, adjacent to the west-most crag Buffalo Pit. Parking is at a premium at Rumney, especially on the nice weekends, and if you show up late, you’re likely to find the lots full. In that case, there is overflow parking across the street (for a fee). You may also park at the town library, about one mile to the east at the Rumney town center. Better yet, consider heading elsewhere when the lots are full.

WALKING ON THE ROAD: The short answer is: DO NOT WALK OR HANG OUT ON THE ROAD. The longer answer is: Most of the cliffs are accessed by trails leading from the big lot and the small lot. If you must walk on the road, (maybe you’ve parked at the town library and you’re heading back to the main lots), make sure to walk alertly and single file on the left, getting as far off the road as possible when cars come. Locals use the road to access the dump, so the road can be quite busy on the weekends. There have been numerous near misses, with cars having to swerve violently out of the way of climbers. The best course of action is to stay out of the road entirely.

As always, at any climbing area, please keep your voices down, don't leave trash, old tarps or wood pallets under the boulders. Particularly, do not bellow profanities.

1,140 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rumney

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 820
Junco
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 840
Metamorphosis
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 859
Underdog
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 904
Lonesome Dove
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 399
Jolt
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 943
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My…
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 441
Millenium Falcon
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 581
Waimea
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 455
Centerpiece
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 485
Peer Pressure
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 351
Tropicana
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 341
Flying Hawaiian
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 352
Social Outcast
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 248
Technosurfing
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 263
Flesh For Lulu
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Junco Jimmy Cliff
 820
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Metamorphosis Armed & Dangerous (Ma…
 840
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Underdog Main Cliff
 859
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Lonesome Dove Jimmy Cliff
 904
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jolt Hinterlands
 399
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Armed and Dangerous, and Of… Armed & Dangerous (Ma…
 943
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Millenium Falcon Main Cliff
 441
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Waimea Waimea
 581
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Centerpiece Bonsai
 455
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Peer Pressure Bonsai
 485
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Tropicana Orange Crush
 351
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Flying Hawaiian Waimea
 341
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Social Outcast Bonsai
 352
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Technosurfing Waimea
 248
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Flesh For Lulu Meadows > Holderness Corner
 263
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Rumney »

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