Rumney Recommendations: 1 day of 5.10
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Hi: |
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If it were me I would head to main cliff and the armed and dangerous area. Lots of awesome 10's to keep you busy and metamorphosis is a great 5.8 to warmup on. The wall also gets some good sun and since you'll be there on a weekday crowds shouldn't be bad at all. Have fun! |
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Seconded. Did metamorphosis and underdog. Enjoyed both. |
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Third vote for Main cliff. It has been raining a lot recently, so many crags are wet. Main Cliff stays pretty dry (some routes were a bit wet yesterday, but should be dry by today). |
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Awesome, thanks so much! |
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They are right on! at main cliff you should try and get on: |
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FWIW, Sweet Polly Purebread is one of my all time favorite climbs. To add to Eric's list, by crag... |
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Head up to the left side of the Main Cliff (armed and Dangerous area) early. Nice warm-ups there and some 10s. Then head right to the Iron Man wall: Underdog, Polly Purebred, Rock du Jour Direct (do second pitch), Millennial Falcon, know Ethics, Goldbug. This is a short walk and the most likely to be dry. These routes are also likely to be crowded on a weekend, so take advantage of being there on a weekday. If things are dry and you want more you can head up to Bonsai and get on Centerpiece and Peer Pressure or head up and right to lower Orange Crush and the New Wave. Coming back to the Parking lot, if it is not blocked for the trail construction, hit up the recently bolted Misdemeanor at the central Meadows area. |
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Wow, really helpful to have the specific route recommendations as well, thanks again to everyone who posted... |
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I'd have to say Peer Preasure @ Bonsi is probably one of the most memorable tens I've been... not too be missed IMO. |
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As Mark recommendeded, start at A&D Wall, then moving to Main Cliff. From there, go to Bonsai. If Bonsai proves too chilly, wander over to Waimea, admire the pretty and hard routes there and then climb Waimea, the route (or its extention All The Way A). That alcove Waimea is in gets pleasantly warm on a chilly day as long as it is sunny. |
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Anyone care to weigh in with a favorite breakfast place? We're staying in Plymouth tonight, so could do there or Rumney for breakfast. |
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Mark, you recommended that "Optimistic" from Gunksland might want to visit Yellowknife Buttress? Sheesh . . . that's the last place I'd send him. And, Soon, Waimea (the route) will probably still be soaked on Tuesday. |
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Not a place to get a huge breakfast, but it's where allot of climbers go and it's right down the street. |
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breakfast at Common Cafe for sure. Also if you hit main cliff, do Goldbug. The corner is really fun and way less scary than Know Ethics. And on your way to Waimea (don't get your hopes up, it was soaked this weekend), do Yoda and Obi Wan at Lower Vader to warm up. |
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Scottish accent? Dave Q? See mountainproject.com/v/forty… |
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Nick Grant wrote:Mark, you recommended that "Optimistic" from Gunksland might want to visit Yellowknife Buttress? Sheesh . . . that's the last place I'd send him. And, Soon, Waimea (the route) will probably still be soaked on Tuesday. Have fun, Optimistic! Rumney is a 5.10 climber's heaven."If you had already climbed at the above areas and things were looking nice and dry, especially on a weekend, ... From there you could just keep heading up to Cozened Stone then over to the Summit Cliff, Yellow Knife or Hinterlands." Note the qualifiers, Nick. That recommendation was more for future reference or for others coming when it was drier. wasn't sure how whacked Rumney had been hit by the rain. Sometimes things dry there surprisingly quickly after a rain if it was very dry before and you get some good wind. You don't think he would like tricky face climbing on steep slab with a thin film of wet lichen and reachy clips? Then he could get on Jolt and some of Bradley White's 'adventures' ;) |
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I guess I should have payed more attention in math class, cuz' I was sure that "0% chance of precipitation" meant something different! |
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Big bummer! Come back soon you're going to love Rumney. |
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M Sprague wrote:Scottish accent? Dave Q? See mountainproject.com/v/forty…yup! Thanks man |
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Was there the same day you were there I believe. Forecasters were wayyyyy off. Got some stuff in though but wish it were dry. bummer for sure |