Rumney Recommendations: 1 day of 5.10

Hi:

We're going to be up at Rumney tomorrow (Tuesday 10/28) and I was hoping for a little beta. I've been there a couple of times but it's been a while now and I think I've really only been to the Parking Lot Wall and Jimmy Cliff anyway. (Also, we stuck to super easy at Jimmy, so if that's the place to go back to that's fine...)

Ideally we're looking for a crag with a couple of nice warmups in the 8-9 range and then a lot of nice 10's to throw ourselves at. The weather is going to be on the cooler side tomorrow, with some clouds in the morning, so a somewhat warmer, sunnier spot might be preferred.

From a database search, it looks like actually a lot of spots might work well, but given that we only have one day, I was hoping to get some local knowledge to help us narrow the search, 'cuz there are so many choices!

Thanks,
David

If it were me I would head to main cliff and the armed and dangerous area. Lots of awesome 10's to keep you busy and metamorphosis is a great 5.8 to warmup on. The wall also gets some good sun and since you'll be there on a weekday crowds shouldn't be bad at all. Have fun!

Seconded. Did metamorphosis and underdog. Enjoyed both.

Third vote for Main cliff. It has been raining a lot recently, so many crags are wet. Main Cliff stays pretty dry (some routes were a bit wet yesterday, but should be dry by today).

Enjoy!

Awesome, thanks so much!

They are right on! at main cliff you should try and get on:

underdog 10a
millenium falcon 10c (so sweet!)
armed and dangerous 10b (would 9- in the gunks ;) )
sweet polly 10c
clusterphobia 10d a little harder but way better than A&D in my opinion and clean falls on close bolts

also there's a 5.7 on the far right side of main cliff with a super cool 5.9 second pitch that hand traverses this massive flake 100 ft off the deck...rock du jours direct

FWIW, Sweet Polly Purebread is one of my all time favorite climbs. To add to Eric's list, by crag...

Bonsai:
War and Peace 5.9+, but I like it more than Masterpiece (I know, I know...)
Masterpiece 5.10a
Centerpiece 5.10d
Peer Pressure 5.10d The real classic

Waimea 5.10d, absolutely a must do, especially if you're headed to Jimmy anyway.

Jimmy Cliff:
Lonesome Dove 5.10a, goes without saying.

Rumney is an amazing place to get on 10's all day. I think Eric and I covered most of the classics, which is any case is a very long day. There are plenty more 10's, but not many of them come close in quality.

Also, if you're tired and coming from the higher crags, consider doing the two 5.9's at Vader, really fun and a good way to finish the day.

Enjoy!

Head up to the left side of the Main Cliff (armed and Dangerous area) early. Nice warm-ups there and some 10s. Then head right to the Iron Man wall: Underdog, Polly Purebred, Rock du Jour Direct (do second pitch), Millennial Falcon, know Ethics, Goldbug. This is a short walk and the most likely to be dry. These routes are also likely to be crowded on a weekend, so take advantage of being there on a weekday. If things are dry and you want more you can head up to Bonsai and get on Centerpiece and Peer Pressure or head up and right to lower Orange Crush and the New Wave. Coming back to the Parking lot, if it is not blocked for the trail construction, hit up the recently bolted Misdemeanor at the central Meadows area.

If you had already climbed at the above areas and things were looking nice and dry, especially on a weekend, I would recommend taking a bit of a walk through the Black Jack boulders over the The NW Territories. From there you could just keep heading up to Cozened Stone then over to the Summit Cliff, Yellow Knife or Hinterlands.

One other 5.10 tour in dry conditions is Armed and Dangerous area, Bonsai to the Crow's Nest (on the way past Waimea run over and do it's namesake route). On the way back down you could take the overland trail above the Main cliff and Orange Crush and finish up at the Kennel Wall. It is a quick drop right down from there to the small parking lot.

-LOL, 6 posts in the time it took me to hit send. I guess it is clear -> The Main Cliff

Wow, really helpful to have the specific route recommendations as well, thanks again to everyone who posted...

I'd have to say Peer Preasure @ Bonsi is probably one of the most memorable tens I've been... not too be missed IMO.

As Mark recommendeded, start at A&D Wall, then moving to Main Cliff. From there, go to Bonsai. If Bonsai proves too chilly, wander over to Waimea, admire the pretty and hard routes there and then climb Waimea, the route (or its extention All The Way A). That alcove Waimea is in gets pleasantly warm on a chilly day as long as it is sunny.

Anyone care to weigh in with a favorite breakfast place? We're staying in Plymouth tonight, so could do there or Rumney for breakfast.

Mark, you recommended that "Optimistic" from Gunksland might want to visit Yellowknife Buttress? Sheesh . . . that's the last place I'd send him. And, Soon, Waimea (the route) will probably still be soaked on Tuesday.

Have fun, Optimistic! Rumney is a 5.10 climber's heaven.

Not a place to get a huge breakfast, but it's where allot of climbers go and it's right down the street.

thecommoncafeandantiques.com

It's gonna be a great day tomorrow. Enjoy...

breakfast at Common Cafe for sure. Also if you hit main cliff, do Goldbug. The corner is really fun and way less scary than Know Ethics. And on your way to Waimea (don't get your hopes up, it was soaked this weekend), do Yoda and Obi Wan at Lower Vader to warm up.

Mark Sprague, I met a friend of yours. He was barefoot climbing with Chris Smith and a woman with a British accent on Sunday at Main Cliff. Do you know if he's on mountain project? He gave me some secret beta and I was hoping to get in touch

Scottish accent? Dave Q? See mountainproject.com/v/forty…

Nick Grant wrote:Mark, you recommended that "Optimistic" from Gunksland might want to visit Yellowknife Buttress? Sheesh . . . that's the last place I'd send him. And, Soon, Waimea (the route) will probably still be soaked on Tuesday. Have fun, Optimistic! Rumney is a 5.10 climber's heaven.

"If you had already climbed at the above areas and things were looking nice and dry, especially on a weekend, ... From there you could just keep heading up to Cozened Stone then over to the Summit Cliff, Yellow Knife or Hinterlands."

Note the qualifiers, Nick. That recommendation was more for future reference or for others coming when it was drier. wasn't sure how whacked Rumney had been hit by the rain. Sometimes things dry there surprisingly quickly after a rain if it was very dry before and you get some good wind.

You don't think he would like tricky face climbing on steep slab with a thin film of wet lichen and reachy clips? Then he could get on Jolt and some of Bradley White's 'adventures' ;)

I guess I should have payed more attention in math class, cuz' I was sure that "0% chance of precipitation" meant something different!

Rained out!

Well, you guys were right about the Common Cafe...we'll be back to check on the rest of the recommendations another day!

Cheers,
David

Big bummer! Come back soon — you're going to love Rumney.

M Sprague wrote:Scottish accent? Dave Q? See mountainproject.com/v/forty…

yup! Thanks man

Was there the same day you were there I believe. Forecasters were wayyyyy off. Got some stuff in though but wish it were dry. bummer for sure