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Rumney Ice Climbs
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5.8 Crag 
Apocalypse Wall 
Beyond Infinity Wall 
G Spot 
Hendrix & Lee (Upper Darth Vader) 
Hinterlands 
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Jobsite, The 
Main Cliff Left--Venus Wall 
Main Cliff Right 
Orange Crush Crag 
Parking Lot Wall 
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Triple Corners 
Wonderland 

Rumney Ice Climbs 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 31, 2007

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Mike Garrity climbing an apparently unnamed
gull...

Description 

Obviously the best thing at Rumney is sport climbing but the ice at Rumney is really fun. And much closer if you are coming from the south (and most people are) than the more popular ice areas.

The down side to ice climbing at Rumney is the same as the up side: southern exposure. On the down side the sun can bake the ice off the rock fairly quickly. The up side is it will keep you nice and warm compared to the north-facing cliffs that get more attention. However, a few cloudy cold days can build the ice up well enough to put up with the sun for a few days at a time. Bottom line is that Rumney is worth making a trip to in the winter to climb some ice. I find there is always something to climb in January and February even early March. Other months are hit or miss.

The classic lines on ice to name a few are: Geographic Factor 5 (THE BEST), Selsun Blue 4, The Cave Route 3, Center Fold 3, among other great flows.

There are mixed climbing opportunities all over but remember to be respectful of the sport routes and don't damage holds with tools and crampons. If you are not sure if it's OK to climb something with ice gear...IT'S NOT.


Getting There 

Many of the cliffs at Rumney host some ice. They will be listed individually.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rumney Ice Climbs:
Prestor John   WI4     Ice   Hinterlands
Barbados   WI5     Ice, 65 feet   Parking Lot Wall
Scottish Gully   WI3     Ice   Parking Lot Wall
Iced Coffee   WI3+     Ice   Parking Lot Wall
Apocalypse Left   WI3-4     Ice   Apocalypse Wall
Franky Lee   WI4+     Ice   Parking Lot Wall
Shaelyn's Way   WI5     Ice, 65 feet   Parking Lot Wall
Selsun Blue   WI4     Ice   Main Cliff Left--Venus Wall
The Cave Route   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Main Cliff Left--Venus Wall
Fangmanship   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches, 120 feet   Triple Corners
Centerfold   WI3     Ice   Parking Lot Wall
The Meadow Flows   WI2-3     Ice   Parking Lot Wall
Geographic Factor   WI5     Ice   Hinterlands
Browse More Classics in Rumney Ice Climbs

Featured Route For Rumney Ice Climbs
Jaws is midway on the ledge. It is the free standing pillar curtain in the center of this photo. Very not in.

Jaws WI5  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : Orange Crush Crag
Climb up W3 ice 20ft. and put in some strong protection as high up as you can and long sling it. Step down until you can mount left onto the wide free standing pillar. Climb vertically diagonal up and left until you run out of ice equal height to the two screws. Screw curtain and move left. Again go up and protect yourself under the ceiling before exiting left. Dry point exit onto flat belay ledge. Dry pointing when I ice climbed wasn't a terminology and it included creative aid. It's straight f...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of Rumney Ice Climbs Slideshow Add Photo
my dad (ernie) on the cave route...

my dad (ernie) on the cave route...

Casey, down from his 3rd lead ever.

Casey, down from his 3rd lead ever.

Rumney in Winter

Rumney in Winter

The lunch cave

The lunch cave

the rock route Long Board looking like an ice route top to bottom... <br /> <br />has this been done as an ice climb?

BETA PHOTO: the rock route Long Board looking like an ice rout...

nasty spring ice on the right side of Bonsai. Looks like it is good in the winter though.

nasty spring ice on the right side of Bonsai. Loo...


Comments on Rumney Ice Climbs Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 6, 2010
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 27, 2010

thanks for the update Eric... looks like the weather is supposed to get pretty cold in the next few days... i think the ice will be back soon...

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jan 27, 2010

I'm hoping so, but quite frankly I'm enjoying the rock climbing a little too much right now.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 27, 2010

im with you there... but it seems we arent out of winter for another couple months... the good news is you can do good ice and good rock in the same day at rumney!

By twellman
Jan 29, 2010

Im thinking of trying ice at Rumney this Sunday, Jan 31, but not sure how the conditions are going to be after the recent rain we had. If anyone had some info on the current ice conditions, it would be greatly appreciated!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 30, 2010

Im not sure what it looks like now, but i know 3 days ago, rumney ice was almost destroyed, with that being said it has been freezing the last two days, but dont know if it has made a full recovery. Selsun Blue(as pictured in E Thatcher's post above) was completely gone 3 days ago and nothing seemed safe, but i havent been out there since so it might have made a recovery.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 1, 2010

got out today and the ice seemed to have made a pretty good recovery... everything that gets fat was fat...

we climbed at hinterlands mostly everything was perfect! and FAT... Geo was in super mellow condition...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 6, 2010

Was in Rumney today, I looked up and Selsun Blue, the Cave Route, and the parking lot wall ice seemed to be in really good, the left most routes at parking lot wall might be a little thin but possible.