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Rumney and Cathedral Conditions
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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Mar 6, 2013
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
I have Spring break next week. I assume that Cathedral is probably not a good bet, but is Rumney in good condition?

Extended forecast says temps in the 30-40 range. I assume the trails at Rumney are at least mildly clear if there isn't any heavy snow in the next week?

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By RockinOut
From NY, NY
Mar 6, 2013
Gear
You might want to watch this front that is going to be pushing through during the end of this week. I know NY is supposed to get anywhere from 3-12 inches depending on where you are ad the elevation.

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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Mar 6, 2013
Cool movement on this line
If it is sunny, you almost always can find something to climb at main cliff, also Prudential gets a lot of sun so does New Wave. Those could have some climbing options for you.

The bouldering at Rumney is in pretty good shape just bring a broom for the top outs and with a little work you can climb many of the boulder problems.

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Mar 6, 2013
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.
Is the Main Cliff still open? It is about the time that the peregrines start moving in.

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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Mar 6, 2013
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
Shhh, Mark. I hope the birds don't hear you.

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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Mar 6, 2013
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
Early spring in Rumney can be amazing! There will be wet rock, but you will always be able to find something to climb.

Cathedral is really sketchy this time of year due to the ice and snow falling off the top. Generally, I wait until the road to the top opens before I climb there.

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By john strand
From southern colo
Mar 6, 2013
i would bet that large parts of the South Buttress will be fine.

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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Mar 6, 2013
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
Thanks guys, my best season at Rumney so far was last spring, starting mid-March. I just wasn't sure with all the snow we've gotten. I'll be sure to get up there soon!

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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Mar 6, 2013
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think snow levels really affect Rumney rock. In the spring, the wet routes are wet and the dry routes are dry, no matter how much snow we've gotten.

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By chris magness
Mar 7, 2013
Cathedral is safe from falling ice and mostly dry long before the road opens (this time period can be one of its best seasons: good friction and no tourists). Next week however, you'd be best suited to find another option.

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By Bodyboarder
From LA, CA
Mar 8, 2013
Might sundown be a good bet, say, tomorrow? Also what cliffs don't seep toobad at rumney right now?

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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Mar 8, 2013
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.
chris magness wrote:
Cathedral is safe from falling ice and mostly dry long before the road opens (this time period can be one of its best seasons: good friction and no tourists). Next week however, you'd be best suited to find another option.


Yeah, good point. I just wait for the road to open because I don't want to walk up or down the trail when the road's closed. I think the road to the top of the cliff is one of the best features of Cathedral.

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By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Havertown, PA
Mar 9, 2013
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adirondacks, NY.
M Sprague wrote:
Is the Main Cliff still open? It is about the time that the peregrines start moving in.


Yes, it is. Was there today. Amazing conditions, to say the least.

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By john strand
From southern colo
Mar 10, 2013
Jay Knower wrote:
Yeah, good point. I just wait for the road to open because I don't want to walk up or down the trail when the road's closed. I think the road to the top of the cliff is one of the best features of Cathedral.


Good one Jay...

I started rapping off most cathedral climbs in the 80's.. then you don't have to walk or drive

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By Brendan Blanchard
From Strafford, NH
Mar 10, 2013
Obi Wan Ryobi - Darth Vader Crag, Rumney NH
Chris Duca wrote:
Yes, it is. Was there today. Amazing conditions, to say the least.


I was as well, absolutely great conditions. Felt more like late March-April.

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By Nick K
From Somerville, MA
Mar 12, 2013
Given that it's going to be dry and maybe sunny the rest of the week, what are the chances of rock up by Conway being in shape for the weekend? Maybe Humphrey's or Whitehorse, if not Cathedral?

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By Jcomeau
From Hopkinton, MA
Mar 13, 2013
Ive heard Humph's is good to go as well as the south buttress. Check out neclimbs

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By LiamB
Mar 22, 2013
After this last snowstorm, anybody know if Cathedral/Whitehorse will be climbable this weekend? On the same note, anyone been to Rumney today/or yesterday, and is it worth making a trek up there this weekend? Thanks for the help!

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By Nick K
From Somerville, MA
Mar 22, 2013
mtbdude91 wrote:
After this last snowstorm, anybody know if Cathedral/Whitehorse will be climbable this weekend? On the same note, anyone been to Rumney today/or yesterday, and is it worth making a trek up there this weekend? Thanks for the help!


My guess is that Rumney is probably going to be good. The cold snap up there this week might have left some more ice to drop on Cathedral/Whitehorse, might not. I would be interested to hear if that's the case. My buddy and I are being cautious and planning on Sundown this weekend.

NE climbs says Humphrey's is good for rock and maybe the South Buttress of Whitehorse. Having just read that, I suspect I may be spending a day at Humphrey's this weekend.

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By LiamB
Mar 23, 2013
Went to Cathedral today. Ice looked good at the far end of the North End. We were interested in rock though. The Bird's Nest and They Died laughing part of the wall looked pretty O.K, but moving to the right had a good amount of snow on it. Moved to Humphrey's Ledge hoping for warmer dryer rock. Center wall around the Weisner crack was pretty wet, but we moved left to the cake walk area and most of that was pretty dry and warm and had plenty of open climbing on it. Every now and then a few small ice pebble showers... But all in all a great first day of the season.

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By Nick K
From Somerville, MA
Mar 24, 2013
Excellent to hear!

Some of Sundown was in good shape and dry, some of it was a shooting gallery of dropping ice. Vultures was clear, though we did get meltwater running down on us. Eyeless was clear, but the belayer got rained on if they stepped back from the cliff. We didn't get on Romper Room, but that looked decent.

We did wear helmets all day though.

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By Jeremy A
From NH
Mar 25, 2013
Fido Low
Rumney was nice and dry over the weekend. Minus the usual wet spots. Peregrines were active at Main Cliff. So get at it while you can. Definitely was wearing a helmet all day. Watch out for the stuff above cake walk. Always a good idea to check via the pull off before hitting the Hump. Enjoy.

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By Keyan P
From Burlington, VT
Apr 3, 2013
View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH
Anyone went to Rumney last weekend? How are things there?

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By Jeremy A
From NH
Apr 3, 2013
Fido Low
Went up over the weekend. It was packed already with folks pretty hungary to get the season started. Most everything was dry with the usual seepage. It was sunny and a great outing. Looking at this weekends forecast...there s/b plenty out this weekend. Enjoy.

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By Keyan P
From Burlington, VT
Apr 3, 2013
View from top of Standard Route on Whitehorse, NH
Jeremy A wrote:
Went up over the weekend. It was packed already with folks pretty hungary to get the season started. Most everything was dry with the usual seepage. It was sunny and a great outing. Looking at this weekends forecast...there s/b plenty out this weekend. Enjoy.


Thanks!

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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Apr 4, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on
Anyone been to Whitehorse lately? How are conditions over there?

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