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Rumbling bald/looking glass trad
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By wpfister
Mar 27, 2013
Linville
Hello everyone,
I'm a new trad climber out of Greenville, sc. I mainly climb at rumbling bald, cedar rock and crowders and am looking at getting more into trad climbing. So far I have BD stoppers 4-13 and 3 cams, .5,.75 and 1. I was wondering whAt else I should look into getting. I will probably be climbing routes like fruit loops at the bald and the nose at looking glass, I do have experience with multi pitch. So what pieces of gear that I don't have could be useful and should I think about getting? Any advice welcome!
Thanks in advance!

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By cfuttner
Mar 27, 2013
Tricams, pink, red, blue, and brown. I place them all the time.

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By csproul
From Davis, CA
Mar 27, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background
Small to med cams...masters, aliens something like that up to orange or red. then double up on any of that stuff including 0.5-2 Camalots. Tricams are ok, but I'd rather have the cams in the same sizes 1st.

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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Mar 27, 2013
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.
The nuts aren't as important at those places until you start getting into the 5.11's and harder. There are only a few routes that require nuts. I would agree with having a rack of the tricams from the small black all the way to blue or navy. They are cheap and work really well in eyebrows. You are missing a lot of the smaller finger sized cams. Consider the metolius master cams from orange #3 to purple #0 or equivalent C3s and C4s (.4 to 0). Also a #2 and a #3 C4 would help, the #2 being more improtant. The tricams are really nice on the south side of Looking Glass for building belays. Most other faces at LG like the Nose or North Face all have bolted belays. The Bald and Cedar have all bolted belays. At those two places the finger sized pieces are really important.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 27, 2013
El Chorro
Good advice already.

I did a butt load of NC trad climbing with the following rack:
- Metolius TCUs (blue, yellow, orange)
- Metolius 4cu (red)
- Camalots (purple, green, red, yellow)
- Stoppers (4-13)
- Tricams (pink, red, blue, brown)
- Nut tool

The black tricam didn't exist then, but if it had I'm sure it would have been useful. Every once in a while I wished I had a blue (#3) Camalot, but not often.

You're on your way to the rack I started with. It's possible to climb a lot in NC w/ that rack, but don't forget about shoulder slings, loose biners, etc.

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By RadDawg
From NE, GA
Mar 27, 2013
Sunrise over Cashiers valley
I can usually get by with this:


standard NC rack
standard NC rack

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Mar 27, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.
If your in Greenville i suggest you get in touch with Tony Jones (ClimbBlueRidge), Buddy Price, or Frost (sunrift) and tag along for a day or two with them and see what those guys have on their rack. Otherwise given advice is great. Have fun out there and be safe.

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By DanP
From Georgia
Mar 27, 2013
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Whatever you decide to rack up with, don't leave the TCUs behind!

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By Christiney
Apr 10, 2013
rock_fencer wrote:
If your in Greenville i suggest you get in touch with Tony Jones (ClimbBlueRidge), Buddy Price, or Frost (sunrift) and tag along for a day or two with them and see what those guys have on their rack. Otherwise given advice is great. Have fun out there and be safe.


thanks for the tip maybe i will see if any of these guys would like a belayer/route cleaner too.

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