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Rumbling Bald Guidebook/Climbing Partner
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By agawrons
May 7, 2013

Hey all,

I'm heading down to Charlotte from Canada for a conference so I thought I'd head over to Rumbling bald for a couple days (May 22nd/23rd). I'll probably have just a small pad and no guidebook. The guidebook seems to be sold out everywhere. Can anyone lend/sell me a copy? Or is anyone willing to come out and climb with me?

Thanks,
Alex


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By Mark Byers
May 7, 2013
Profile Pic

www.amazon.com/Rumbling-Bouldering-Guide-Chris-Dorrity/dp/09>>>.


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
May 8, 2013
Edge of a Dream

www.amazon.com/Selected-Climbs-North-Carolina-Lambert/dp/089>>>

Above is the guidebook you'll need if you want to hop on any roped climbs. I know you mentioned you may only have a pad but if you get a chance cereal buttress has some super state classics;

mountainproject.com/v/shredded-wheat/105923509 -- probably the best splitter finger crack in the state

mountainproject.com/v/granola/105923513
mountainproject.com/v/frosted-flake/105899306
mountainproject.com/v/fruit-loops/105898439
mountainproject.com/v/capt-crunch/105930790

If you happen to get a partner you should totally get on these, especially considering you'll be there during the week when there aren't any lines for these gems. Hopefully there is someone climbing who doesn't mind if you run a couple laps on there rope; folks in North Carolina are usually great company!


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By Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
May 8, 2013

The Bald is already out of season...the end of May will be worse for sure. Poison ivy & biting flies add more discomfort to the bad bouldering conditions. Head to the Highcountry near Boone for much better bouldering for this time of year. There are no guides to the area but Footsloggers (the local outdoor gear shop) used to hand out maps to the local climbing/bouldering and will at least get you to areas like Grandmothers & Blowing Rock.


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By Ben Sachs
May 8, 2013

+1 for not going to the Bald. Bouldering would be way too hot, and so would roped stuff honestly. It BAKES in the sun. If you have 2 full days go to Boone there is more to do especially if you have limited pads. The bouldering is as good as just as stacked as the Bald. Even Moore's wall near Winston-Salem would be a better bouldering option but landings and temps are generally worse and no one will be there during the week to climb with.


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By agawrons
May 8, 2013

@Mark
Amazon price with shipping is $100 which is a bit steep. I might get it anyway if I get desperate.

@Jonathan
I'm going to stick to bouldering. I have no gear for sport/trad and little experience. But thanks for the links anyways!

@Brad
From the forecast the temperatures are going to be mid 20s C, which doesn't seem so bad. If I wear bug spray and watch my step, how bad could it be? But tell me more about Boone bouldering. How many problems are there? I found this: www.booneboulders.com/boulders.html. Which of the four areas is best? What's the approach like? I have limited time, I need to be back in Charlotte by 8:00pm.


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By agawrons
May 8, 2013

Would Dixon School Boulders be as bad as Rumbling Bald? Hows the quality there?


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
May 8, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

agawrons wrote:
@Mark Amazon price with shipping is $100 which is a bit steep. I might get it anyway if I get desperate. @Jonathan I'm going to stick to bouldering. I have no gear for sport/trad and little experience. But thanks for the links anyways! @Brad From the forecast the temperatures are going to be mid 20s C, which doesn't seem so bad. If I wear bug spray and watch my step, how bad could it be? But tell me more about Boone bouldering. How many problems are there? I found this: www.booneboulders.com/boulders.html. Which of the four areas is best? What's the approach like? I have limited time, I need to be back in Charlotte by 8:00pm.

Brad is right IMO. RB is already getting out of season and by the end of may it'll be hot and buggy. I'm sure there are people out there that'll do it, but it doesn't sound pleasant to me at all. RB is one of the best/largest bouldering areas in the state, but all of the stuff around Boone is awesome too. Might be a bit far to be back to Charlotte by 8:00. Dixon school is pretty good too, but I don't know about climbing there when it is getting warmer.


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By Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
May 8, 2013

Dixon is your best alternative but its going to be about as bad as the Bald, maybe a little better, but still not the best sending conditions. Guidebooks for both Dixon & the Bald should be available locally, or you could go ahead and contact some local outfitters about having it shipped or reserved for you...pretty sure Sunrift Adventures and Looking Glass Outfitters has both in my immediate area and they both should be willing to ship to you or the hotel you're staying at in Charlotte. Grandmothers and Blowing Rock are the best 2 boulderfields in the Highcountry, and provide around 400 or so incredible problems combined. The 221Circuit has some awesome problems too and is discussed pretty well in the article Hidden Gems in Climbing (the magazine...available here... www.climbing.com/route/hidden-gems/ )


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By Mark Byers
May 8, 2013
Profile Pic

agawrons wrote:
@Mark Amazon price with shipping is $100 which is a bit steep. I might get it anyway if I get desperate. @Jonathan I'm going to stick to bouldering. I have no gear for sport/trad and little experience. But thanks for the links anyways! @Brad From the forecast the temperatures are going to be mid 20s C, which doesn't seem so bad. If I wear bug spray and watch my step, how bad could it be? But tell me more about Boone bouldering. How many problems are there? I found this: www.booneboulders.com/boulders.html. Which of the four areas is best? What's the approach like? I have limited time, I need to be back in Charlotte by 8:00pm.


Sorry, didn't actually look at the prices. That's way too much. Maybe REI?

www.rei.com/product/785189/rumbling-bald-bouldering-guide

Also, I agree with the other posts. Hot, humid, insects, and poison ivy, but I've done dumber things than boulder/climb at RB in May. I've climbed at Stone in July. :-(


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By rockybobby
From charlotte nc
May 8, 2013
Burn Crack

REI in north Charlotte and Inner Peaks(local climbing gym) both have a great selection of climbing guides. If you were to call Inner Peaks they would let you know what they have in stock and probably give you some great insight on Dixon School Boulders. Crowders mtn has a very small handful of boulder problems but I think Dixon would be your best bet with the time frame you are working with.


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By David Barbour
From Longmont, CO
May 8, 2013

Moore's Wall has great bouldering - as good as Rumbling Bald - and is 2 hours from Charlotte. You can find info on rockclimbing.com

In my opinion, Dixon is miserable in temps higher than 55-60.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
May 9, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

David Barbour wrote:
Moore's Wall has great bouldering - as good as Rumbling Bald - and is 2 hours from Charlotte. You can find info on rockclimbing.com In my opinion, Dixon is miserable in temps higher than 55-60.

Moore's bouldering is pretty good, but -as good as RB- is a stretch IMO. But still, David is right, the temps will be much more pleasant at Moore's than they will be at RB.


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By agawrons
May 18, 2013

Thanks everyone for the advice!
I haven't replied in a while since the site blocked me for posting too much, too early. I managed to get in touch with the author of the Dixon School Road Boulders Guide and he's willing to come meet me. But it looks like the weather isn't cooperating... rain the whole time I'm there :( Hopefully the forecast changes.


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