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The North Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
Logan's Run S 
Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Anderson, 6 March 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 597
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Tugg Speedman.


This is a classic route that makes a great warm-up, or a worthy project. There is a brief section of tedious, thin climbing just below the anchor, but for the most part this line involves fun, athletic climbing with big holds and big moves.

Climb big pockets up the beautiful yellow & brown panel, passing a precarious tooth, to reach a stance below the bulge. A big crank from a 2-finger pocket leads to jugs and the odd lieback up the crack/groove. As the crack peters out, follow great crimps and a few nice pockets to a thin section to reach a horizontal break and the anchor.


Hike ~4-5 minutes left (south) from where the approach trail meets the cliff to locate an orange wall of clean stone with an obvious bulge running the width of the cliff at 1/3 height. This is the "Tropical Wall". This line climbs the central crack system through the bulge. Scramble up the left end of the ledge to start.


7 bolts, 2 BA, a stick clip is recommended.

Photos of Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts Slideshow Add Photo
Cranking the low crux of Rum Tum Tuggernaughts. <br /> <br />Photo  Ryan Day Thompson, 2012 | <a href='http://www.ryandaythompson.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >ryandaythompson.com</a>.
Cranking the low crux of Rum Tum Tuggernaughts. P...
Another view of The Tropical Wall: <br /> <br />1. Observe God's Mistake. <br />2. Lead Farmer. <br />3. Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts. <br />4. Here We Go Again....  Again. <br />5. Earth Mama... <br />6. Full Retard. <br />7. Scorcher VI. <br />8. Who Left the Fridge Open? <br />
Another view of The Tropical Wall: 1. Observe God...

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