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Rum Tum Tugger 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Richard Wright and Ann Brandonburg Schroeder
Page Views: 1,656
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Dec 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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  • Description 

    Reach the anchors atop Grizabella (5.7 - 95 feet - Route 9 on the topo), the farthest right route on the Catslab proper. Climb up and right along a ledge clipping two bolts with longer draws before climbing up and back left across an arete. Don't panic after the second bolt, your X-ray vision or a judicious glance around the arete will turn up the easy to clip third bolt. The route finally attacks the upper roof in a corner off of sidepulls and jugs. The belayer will be able to hear but not see the climber between the third and eighth bolts. Interesting moves around the arete and roof and fortunately well protected for the not so perfect rock quality - somewhat scaly and brittle in places. Yet, all of the critical holds were solid.


    Protection 

    10 bolts - 2 bolt coldshut anchor - 80 feet from the anchors atop Grizabella. 2 ropes or 200 foot rope needed to descend from Grizabella.



    Photos of Rum Tum Tugger Slideshow Add Photo
    T-bone Tod Bol on a low-gravity day, gracing his way up the 5.11 roof of RTT, Cat Slab.
    T-bone Tod Bol on a low-gravity day, gracing his w...
    The start.
    BETA PHOTO: The start.
    Comments on Rum Tum Tugger Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 10, 2013
    By darren
    From: Durango, Colorado
    Jun 25, 2001

    [I don't] think the .12 up above is 12. Quite an awesome route with great position....

    -darren

    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jun 26, 2001

    I think we called the upper pitch Rum Tug Tugger (?) just to keep it distinct from the much easier pitch below. When I led it I thought it was 5.12a, but I probably did it wrong, and you are working with some rather large jugs in the roof. Rob Pizem didn't shoot down the 5.12a grade but I would bet that if you asked him now he would agree with 5.11+. I did think that it was harder than 5.11c.

    By TBD
    May 14, 2002

    A good route. Suggest unclipping the second bolt after clipping the third to reduce rope drag (easy to reach), also use a longer draw on the third bolt. I thought it was closer to 11c though, perhaps a long reach helps.

    By Bryson Slothower
    Jul 29, 2002

    This route has great moves and pro, I would say it's worthy of more than one star, but there is some loose rock and a suspect hold just below the fourth bolt. I would also agree that it is probably not 5.12. Very worth doing if you get tired of slopers on the slab below....

    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 1, 2002

    Seemed 11c when we put it in, but feed back from climbers suggested that 11c was a sand bag - 11+?

    By Bryson Slothower
    Aug 8, 2002

    11+ would seem about right to me but then again I'm tall and the hardest move seemed like the long reach over the roof....

    By Jim Redo
    Aug 19, 2002

    11b/c.

    By richard magill
    Oct 21, 2002
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Fun line!The big hold (i.e. 20 pounds of stone) near the fourth bolt is cracked clear through and is flexing a bit.I put an "X" on it. It can't possibly be removed on a weekend without threatening people at the base below.Someone may want to crowbar or reinforce this soon - it is a nasty accident waiting to happen.

    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Oct 21, 2002

    11c and now adjusted.

    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Apr 5, 2010
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    BELAYERS BRING A HELMET!

    You're pretty much sitting right under the death zone should your leader kick off somma that chossy scree at the roof, as T-bone Tod Bol did Saturday last. Big chunk, too. Could'a killed. (Thanx, T-bone!)

    Otherwise, a fucktastic route--my first ever 5.11 onsight. I got several key hip scrums that almost afforded no-hands rest, right through the roof magic. Plus the jugs (not to mention the sweet, right-where-ya-need-em clips) make for just a swell time. Call it 11b. (Though I could see it pushin' 12 if'n you didn't get the scrums.)

    Still, for the initiate 11 climber lookin' for some spice, you could do little better, choss or not. AND you get to be the Cat Slab hero (or hound) since you're there in the spotlight, grunting for all the crag to see. Fantastic.

    Oh, and the anchors are lookin' pretty rusted, though they seem to hold my fat 185lbs fine....

    By tony812
    Sep 7, 2013

    Thought was an amazing route if you are ever at Catslab and you want have a fun time do this route. One of the best routes I have done so far at Clear Creek....
    The grade is a little steep though it runs more of 11a maybe b for myself.

    By DPug
    Sep 10, 2013
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Really fun route but doesn't grade doesn't compare to others I've done of the grade. Felt like a soft 11b.