Type: | Sport |
FA: | Glenn Schuler, 1989 |
Page Views: | 1,909 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Nov 18, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
Details
Per A Lee: *ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.
The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.
The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.
The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.
Description
Perhaps it is stretching to post three stars for Rude Mood, but this route is a personal favorite of mine.
A couple of hundred feet past the second drainage is a chocolate colored buttress that is carved out as something of an inset that is part of a left-facing corner system.
Start climbing in the slot on the right and try not to stem too much. There are good hands deep in the slot that allow you to move upwards without the stem, however, the stem is almost too logical to be avoided and it is a toss-up as to how much it affects the over-all grade. It is also highly rationale to bail out right on a ledge system at 30 feet for a complete rest. To keep up the continuity, avoid the rest. Tricky and fingery climbing puts you back on the face for 35 more feet of continuous edge climbing.
Fairness would drop a star for the possibility of steming off the ground and resting at mid point. Nonetheless, this route is too cool to lose any points - analogous to the beautiful coed begging for grades, who can refuse? You can cheapen the date a bit further by scrambling over the top to toss a TR on Dr. Duane on the adjacent left buttress. Three stars for the cool moves, thin and technical edging, continuity, good stone, and well reasoned pro.
A couple of hundred feet past the second drainage is a chocolate colored buttress that is carved out as something of an inset that is part of a left-facing corner system.
Start climbing in the slot on the right and try not to stem too much. There are good hands deep in the slot that allow you to move upwards without the stem, however, the stem is almost too logical to be avoided and it is a toss-up as to how much it affects the over-all grade. It is also highly rationale to bail out right on a ledge system at 30 feet for a complete rest. To keep up the continuity, avoid the rest. Tricky and fingery climbing puts you back on the face for 35 more feet of continuous edge climbing.
Fairness would drop a star for the possibility of steming off the ground and resting at mid point. Nonetheless, this route is too cool to lose any points - analogous to the beautiful coed begging for grades, who can refuse? You can cheapen the date a bit further by scrambling over the top to toss a TR on Dr. Duane on the adjacent left buttress. Three stars for the cool moves, thin and technical edging, continuity, good stone, and well reasoned pro.
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