Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Christian Brothers
Select Route:
Am I Evil? 
Asterisk, The 
Attic Antics 
Barbecue The Pope 
Blasphemy 
Blue Balls 
Bowling Alley 
Boy Prophet 
Catherine Finds An Edge 
Charlie's Chimney 
Child's Play 
Culture of Fear 
Dancer 
Double Trouble 
Dreamin' 
Earth Boys 
El Sancho 
Golgotha 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp 
Heathen's Highway 
Heresy 
Hesitation Blues 
Holy Road, The 
Irreverence 
Jete 
left side of the Beard, The 
Little Indian Princess 
Lunatic To Love 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The 
New Testament 
Nightingale's on Vacation 
Old Testament 
Overnight Sensation 
Panic Attack 
Rawhide 
Revelations 
right side of the Beard, The 
Ring of Fire 
Rude Boys 
Rude Femmes 
Scarface 
Self Preservation Variation 
Shoes of the Fisherman 
Smooth Boy 
That First Step 
Toy Blocks 
Toys In The Attic 
Unknown 10c 
Via Dolorosa 
Wartley's Revenge 

Rude Boys 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FA - Alan Watts 1985, FFA Jean Baptiste Tribout 10/86
Season: a
Page Views: 6,301
Submitted By: ---- on Mar 22, 2006
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The classic "Rose Move" on Rude Boys.
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Approach the first bolt through some easy moves between good holds. Immediately after the first bolt the technical crux (V5/6) begins with some powerful reaches between small edges. Shake out at the second bolt if you wish, then with your photographer strategically placed, execute the photogenic "rose move." The dynamic redpoint crux (V4) awaits you at a bulge just after the third bolt. Several sequences will work through this section off the hang, but take care to find the best sequence, as the moves feel significantly harder when linking from the ground.

Once you reach the fourth bolt the hard climbing is over. Your hands are good but the lack of low feet makes it hard to rest here. The next few moves moving right to the mini dihedral are not trivial. The rest of the climb is more of a mental challenge than anything else. The finishing 5.11 slab is runout and features interesting moves between slopers, pinches and pockets. This slab is much more complex and challenging than the adjacent Dreamin' slab.


Location 

This route is just left of Dreamin' on the Prophet wall.


Protection 

Quickdraws and maybe a few shoulder-length slings or double-draws to manage the rope drag. There is a horizontal pod that takes gear between the last bolt & the anchor. A nut has been fixed in this pod for many years, but you might want to have some gear with you in case its missing.

Bolted Anchors.



Photos of Rude Boys Slideshow Add Photo
Ian Caldwell dances up Rude Boys.
Ian Caldwell dances up Rude Boys.
Brian prepping for the upper section.
Brian prepping for the upper section.
Comments on Rude Boys Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 12, 2006

I spent some time climbing on, and falling off of this route. The thin technical crux of the route comes at the first bolt (V5 or 6). After that, better holds traverse right to the second crux, passing the third bolt (V4) with some lunges.

On my first attempt at the route, I did all the moves on the lower section and said to my belayer: "Yeah, I'll just run up the final slab." I proceded to get completely destroyed. I found myself fifteen feet run out, staring at the next bolt with no way to clip it. Then it started raining. After a desperation lunge to a sloper, my feet peeled and I was off...I took a 25 footer and ended up at the first bolt. The moral: do not underestimate the slab.

By Philip Scoles
From: bum fuck, Oregon
Nov 14, 2006

Ok, thanks much. I got the beta from Ian and I think I will be able to do it before this up-coming summer.

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Feb 28, 2013

The first onsight of Rude Boys was by Francois Lombard in 1993.