Räuchermännchen (R12c)
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British R
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Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | K. Thon 1974 |
Page Views: | 509 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Shawn Heath on Jun 22, 2011 |
Admins: | Shawn Heath |
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Description
The name translates to "Little Smoking Men" and is the little wooden incense-burning figures people put out around Christmas time.
This is one WEIRD 5.5! And I thought it was hard for 5.5 too. Struggle through the chimney clipping the first bolt and find a hold in the crack on the right while using a sloper or whatever you can with your left and work your feet up so you can get to a good stance. Work your way out of the chimney (face the valley) and eventually manage to get to your second bolt (at this point, if you fall before clipping the second bolt you might hit the ground). If you got this far, you can make it through the rest.
If you can't easily climb 5.8, don't try leading this.
This is one WEIRD 5.5! And I thought it was hard for 5.5 too. Struggle through the chimney clipping the first bolt and find a hold in the crack on the right while using a sloper or whatever you can with your left and work your feet up so you can get to a good stance. Work your way out of the chimney (face the valley) and eventually manage to get to your second bolt (at this point, if you fall before clipping the second bolt you might hit the ground). If you got this far, you can make it through the rest.
If you can't easily climb 5.8, don't try leading this.
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