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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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3 Strikes You're Out T 
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Battle of the Bulge T 
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Black Corner T 
Cal and Andy's Route T 
Cave Route T 
Christmas Tree T 
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Mayes, The T 
Moon Also Rises, The T 
Mystery Machine, The T 
Our Piece of Real Estate T 
Pigs In Space T 
Quarter of a Man T 
Railroad Tracks T 
Ruby's Cafe T 
Ruins Crack T 
Swedin-Ringle T 
Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
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Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 

Ruby's Cafe 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lisa Gnade
Page Views: 12,610
Submitted By: m-earle on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Rich pullin out of the switching corners crux

Description 

A thin start leads to changing corners, which puts you under an intimidating roof. A series of badass moves sets you up for thin laybacking to the anchors. Very sustained!

Location 

This incredible line lies inbetween "The Last Battle," and Digital Readout.

Protection 

6 or so yellow Aliens, a few green.


Photos of Ruby's Cafe Slideshow Add Photo
A most elegant line.
A most elegant line.
Daunting...
Daunting...
Ben Riley entering the crux corner switch
Ben Riley entering the crux corner switch
Making the final moves after leaving the knee-bar.
Making the final moves after leaving the knee-bar.

Comments on Ruby's Cafe Add Comment
Show which comments
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 11, 2007

For those of you who know (and hopefully love) the colorful desert hermit/IC climber extraordinaire Alf Randell, or "Alf", you will appreciate this vignette:

Apparently, Alf had done this climb in the dark past with stoppers and tri-cams. Think 1970s. Think bad-ass. And think of my friend, Herb Crimp, a burly climber in his own right, but a modern child weaned on SLCDs and sticky rubber. Touting the more illustrious ascent, Alf guilt-tripped Herb into leading this route. Herb flailed, but flailed respectively, eventually gaining the anchors. Upon lowering, Herb complained, "just because Alf leads something in 1975 with stoppers and tri-cams doesn't mean I have to lead it."

Wise words. You had to be there.
By alf
Jan 8, 2009

I first tried rubies when friend 1-4 with no half sizes were available. I took one fall at the crux during my lead attempt, and top-roped it with no trouble [around 1980]. I am pleased by the solid grains of truth to be had from the comments i have read here. Thank you all for your fairness and kindness!
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 31, 2010

what a sweet route! I aided the line to put up a toprope and give it a go....barely missed the upper crux my first go! Much more managable than i imagined it would be, and so much fun locking in the knee-bar up high! A classic for sure.