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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
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Last Battle, The 
Like a Prayer  
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Quarter of a Man 
Railroad Tracks 
Ruby's Cafe 
Ruins Crack 
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Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner 
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Warm-up 

Ruby's Cafe 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Lisa Gnade
Page Views: 11,726
Submitted By: m-earle on Mar 19, 2007
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Rich pullin out of the switching corners crux

Description 

A thin start leads to changing corners, which puts you under an intimidating roof. A series of badass moves sets you up for thin laybacking to the anchors. Very sustained!


Location 

This incredible line lies inbetween "The Last Battle," and Digital Readout.


Protection 

6 or so yellow Aliens, a few green.



Photos of Ruby's Cafe Slideshow Add Photo
A most elegant line.
A most elegant line.
Ben Riley entering the crux corner switch
Ben Riley entering the crux corner switch
Daunting...
Daunting...
Comments on Ruby's Cafe Add Comment
Show which comments
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 11, 2007

For those of you who know (and hopefully love) the colorful desert hermit/IC climber extraordinaire Alf Randell, or "Alf", you will appreciate this vignette:

Apparently, Alf had done this climb in the dark past with stoppers and tri-cams. Think 1970s. Think bad-ass. And think of my friend, Herb Crimp, a burly climber in his own right, but a modern child weaned on SLCDs and sticky rubber. Touting the more illustrious ascent, Alf guilt-tripped Herb into leading this route. Herb flailed, but flailed respectively, eventually gaining the anchors. Upon lowering, Herb complained, "just because Alf leads something in 1975 with stoppers and tri-cams doesn't mean I have to lead it."

Wise words. You had to be there.

By alf
Jan 8, 2009

I first tried rubies when friend 1-4 with no half sizes were available. I took one fall at the crux during my lead attempt, and top-roped it with no trouble [around 1980]. I am pleased by the solid grains of truth to be had from the comments i have read here. Thank you all for your fairness and kindness!

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 31, 2010

what a sweet route! I aided the line to put up a toprope and give it a go....barely missed the upper crux my first go! Much more managable than i imagined it would be, and so much fun locking in the knee-bar up high! A classic for sure.