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Really, really cool water groove/face climbing. This route was originally rated 5.10R. Its still pretty R (P1) but probably PG13 with small gear.
P1: Business starts pretty soon on this pitch. Not much warming up. Start directly below the obvious, beautiful black water groove. Climb directly up to a stance at a cool, horizontal crack feature. Get a good .3 or .4 C4 here and move directly left below a steep groove. Carefully climb up the groove looking for a yellow TCU out left in an eyebrow. Move up to a right leaning crack with good gear. Wander right to a stance and get more good gear. Step back left into the groove and climb hard 5.10 friction up to the belay. This part is probably PG13. Belay at the obvious horizontal w/.5 to #2 cams below a steep bulge. 5.10, 60 feet.
P2: This pitch is positively amazing. Climb the steep water groove left and then back right up in to the groove. Get a good .75 and then dance back and forth across the groove on amazing edges, knobs and slopers searching for gear. Its all there. Exit on to a lower angled slab under a bulge. Fire the bulge with good gear to a large sloping ledge and climb some of the coolest holds on the glass for 80 or 90 feet to a big horizontal belay. Belay here with .5 to #2 cams. 5.10, 140 feet.
P3. Climb up and right 40'to the bolt anchor on Irish Jig and rap with two 60s to the ground.
First route left of Southender on the Sun Wall.
Approach from South Face.
Rap Irish Jig with two 60s from bolts. One rap will get you down.
Beautiful black water groove.
P1 is heads up.
Double across the range. Triples in blue TCU or red C3 were especially helpful. Single set stoppers.
All belays are natural except top of P3. Double ropes very helpful.
By jeep gaskin
Oct 21, 2013
since i'm old and frail i use a different protection scheme than the one phil uses: tie in as normal but also clip the other end of the rope to your harness. climb 12 or so feet of southender and take the obvious diagonal traverse to the left. then sidle over to the strong horizontal on ruby and place gear. clip the odd loop from your harness through the pro and lower it down to the start of ruby. now back clean the southender pro as you down climb and you have a top rope through the ground fall section at the start of ruby. i call it the cheater's waltz. it's essentially stick clipping the first good pro. you'll still have to negotiate the spooky section to the overlap above and all of the steep black streak. i would also recommend carrying extra small cams and going all to way to the anchors on irish jig. the total route is only about 160 feet. it's really a proud lead even with the cheater's waltz.