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Ruby Slippers 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby
Page Views: 1,538
Submitted By: dcohn on Jun 2, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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The low crux of Ruby Slippers. I am about to be re...

Description 

The crux is near the bottom. It is a great sequence with interesting feet. Pass through to easier climbing above. If the route was a little more sustained at the grade, it would probably get three stars. Depending on your sequence, the crux will feel pretty hard or not so bad.


Location 

The route just left of the u-shaped tree. There is a distinctive curved seam near the bottom.


Protection 

bolts + anchors



Photos of Ruby Slippers Slideshow Add Photo
Ruby Slippers. Start under the V shaped notch, follow the thin seams.
BETA PHOTO: Ruby Slippers. Start under the V shaped notch, fol...
Greg near the top of Ruby Slippers.  Just one of many steep lines you'll find here.
Greg near the top of Ruby Slippers. Just one of m...
Comments on Ruby Slippers Add Comment
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By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 11, 2008
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

I think this route has an 11a sequence that I did not figure out. Somehow you can go left at the start rather than going right or something like that. Took me forever to get it going right.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 20, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

i think if the crux were halfway up the route it would be solid 5.11 like it says in SQ2 but since it's right at the bottom and you're not pumped yet methinks it's not quite so hard. i can't onsight 5.11.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 29, 2009

That is how things get sandbagged. "I can't lead..." so it must only be this hard. Maybe you are getting better. Or maybe it is easier. A letter here or there, who cares.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 18, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Lol, Jon says he can't onsight 11b a couple of months before sending 12 b/c.