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Ruby Slipper 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Achey and Bill Bradley, 1981
Page Views: 833
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Erik Goukas on Ruby Slipper: photot: Bob Horan Col...

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  • Description 

    I was tempted to say this would be three stars if it were longer, but it's so action-packed, and unique for the area, that it seems worthy of three stars even though the real climbing is only 40-45 feet. Ruby Slipper is a continuous RP to small-wire crack through a steep slab. Several cruxes, thought-provoking protection and a great line make this a classic, despite an arduous approach. Leading it requires patience and the ability to hang out on small footholds while fiddling in RPs, and there are a couple of loose flakes to worry about. But there is plenty of gear if you work at it, and the climbing is excellent. Be careful of the mounds of loose rock on the belay ledge at the top.

    Protection 

    Good pro for the patient, knowledgeable leader.


    Comments on Ruby Slipper Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 16, 2007
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13

    Not a route to max out on. The gear may take some fiddling in, and the flake is fragile in places. The true crux is 2/3 of the way up in thin feet land.
    Small strong fingers and a long reach help, the converse would hurt. The grade on this one is very subjective. I've got all three mitigating attributes going for me so it felt easier that 11c, but I can imagine that lacking long arms or having anything other than my pencil-tipped fingers would have increased the difficulty some.
    By Aeon Aki
    Administrator
    May 1, 2008

    FA Jeff Achey and Bill Hoadley. Bill Bradley was a basketball player.