Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Diamond
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Festoon T 
Hatari  T 
Psycho Bitch S 
Ruby Shoes T 
Tik Tok T 
Toto T 
Trusting Aborigines  S 
Unknown T 

Ruby Shoes 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Staheli
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jul 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Adrienne Kentner following P2 of Ruby Shoes 5.7

Description 

A fun and easy route just uphill and left around the corner from Toto (5.10). Follows the shallow right-facing dihedral system starting in an area of white colored rock. An obvious 2' square roof can be seen just to the left of the line at about the 100' mark, and is a good visual for locating the climb. Two short pitches or can be linked into one full 60M pitch. Mostly easy 5th class with a few moves of 5.6-5.7. Bolted rap anchors exist on both P1 and P2. An optional 40' third pitch (4th class vegetation climbing) allows for linking this into the upper 3 pitches of Toto.

Protection 

A few lead bolts (5/16") plus a single rack to 3" should be plenty for this route. Rappel with a single rope from atop P2, or do the optional third pitch and walkoff, or rappel Toto.

As of July 5th, 2014. The first anchor on this was replaced with a new ASCA anchor.


Photos of Ruby Shoes Slideshow Add Photo
Ruby Shoes
BETA PHOTO: Ruby Shoes

Comments on Ruby Shoes Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

From the second anchor on this you can just make it to the anchor below the fourth pitch on toto without too much rope drag if you have a 70m rope.
By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jun 22, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Someone has been aggressively "cleaning" routes on the diamond, some of these cleaning jobs have been either half assed which is actually making the rest of the climb dirty and less enjoyable, while others have had the moss ripped off loosing some serious choss, please clean with care.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!