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d. Strictly - Shockley's
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Ruby Saturday Direct T 
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Ruby Saturday Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pitch 1, Dick Williams, Marisa Clickner. Pitch 2, Jim McCarthy, Ants Leemets
Page Views: 854
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 21, 2010

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Description 

1. Climb to a small ledge. Move up until you can grab a small, left facing flake (crux) that is at the base of a short, left facing corner. Belay about 30-40 feet higher at a decent stance. There are some obvious, right-facing flakes immediately above this point. 5.10a, 80 feet.

2. Go up and left from the belay, trend back right a bit (you should be more or less directly above your belayer at that point), and blast over a bulge on good holds (crux). Move up and left to a fixed pin, climb past that (second crux), then head slightly right to the GT ledge. 5.9+, 90 feet.



Traverse to climbers' right and descend via the bolted line next to Three Pines.


Location 

About 30 or 40 feet left of the start of Three Pines; look for a clean section of rock and vertical seam a short distance off the deck.


Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack



Comments on Ruby Saturday Direct Add Comment
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By chewtoynj
Nov 7, 2011

It's a fun route. The second pitch climbing was even more fun than the first pitch climbing. Just a few bigger moves on some great overhanging holds.

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

10a? Funny that this and neighboring Nemesis get the same grade in grey Dick. Thought the crux of this climb was an easy stand up on great feet with good protection.

By Eugene Kwan
Jun 3, 2014

Agreed. Easier than Nemesis. But a great climb nonetheless! Did some unknown third pitch at the top that was poorly protected, hard for "5.8," and fun. Not really sure what it was, but it started by traversing right and then back left with some overhangs.

By Michael Schneider
Jun 25, 2014

Another one of my "variations" that has a full line that crosses the others, much closer to 5.10 than .9, gear where you need it.