Ruby Saturday Direct
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1. Climb to a small ledge. Move up until you can grab a small, left facing flake (crux) that is at the base of a short, left facing corner. Belay about 30-40 feet higher at a decent stance. There are some obvious, right-facing flakes immediately above this point. 5.10a, 80 feet.
2. Go up and left from the belay, trend back right a bit (you should be more or less directly above your belayer at that point), and blast over a bulge on good holds (crux). Move up and left to a fixed pin, climb past that (second crux), then head slightly right to the GT ledge. 5.9+, 90 feet.
Traverse to climbers' right and descend via the bolted line next to Three Pines.
About 30 or 40 feet left of the start of Three Pines; look for a clean section of rock and vertical seam a short distance off the deck.
Standard 'Gunks rack
|Comments on Ruby Saturday Direct
Nov 7, 2011
It's a fun route. The second pitch climbing was even more fun than the first pitch climbing. Just a few bigger moves on some great overhanging holds.