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The Parking Lot Wall
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Easily Amused S 
Easily Aroused S 
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Rise and Shine S 
Rubicon S 
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Shemp Lives S 
Squeeze My Lemon S 

Rubicon 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: J.Cullem (Oct. 2009)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,695
Submitted By: jcullem on Oct 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: Photo of the route showing the anchors of Easily A...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located above the anchors of Easily Amused (5.7). From those anchors – at the big ledge/chimney with the tree – follow moderate terrain and good ledges up to the base of a steep headwall. Move through the thin, technical crimp moves (crux) to increasingly better holds/flakes that trend up and slightly left to a 2-bolt ring anchor. Best done as one push from the ground by clipping a draw to the anchor of Easily Amused for a complete long route to the top of the cliff. It may also be done as an independent second pitch after that route, or by traversing in from the second big ledge of Glory Jean’s (5.6), where that route traverses left.

Please do not top rope off the ring anchors, which decreases their lifespan and safety. Instead, place your own draws, and have the last climber in your party thread the rings and rappel (not lower).

Location 

Above anchors of Easily Amused (5.7).

Protection 

5 bolts. Ring anchors.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 13, 2014
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 18, 2009

This is awesome I had always looked up there and wondered if it was possible. Nice work.
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Oct 27, 2009

Did this route today and found it to be a great addition to the cliff. Thanks for taking the time to clean and bolt it! The crux seemed thin and reachey to me, definitely on the more technical side, and very fun.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 1, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thank you for cleaning and bolting this. The crux was a little crimpy but the sequence was fairly obvious and very enjoyable. I have a huge reach, but I found no problem finding the right holds. This is a great addition for this wall. :)
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Nov 9, 2009

Did this yesterday. Definitely a sweet techy route.
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Sep 2, 2010

Thats the short person beta.
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Oct 12, 2010

S.Neoh, A piece of the hold could have broken off because i was on it last Nov. and it felt very loose.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A hold on the left through the crux broke off today. It was shaped like New Hampshire, which was kinda cool.
By S. Neoh
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I had a good rematch with this route yesterday. I used the short person's Beta; still felt hard to me. The broken hold on the left did not seem to affect me or how I climbed the route.
By Heims
From: Portland
Feb 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Sent this for the first time today...mid February! No less...awesome and fun...love the last couple moves!
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Excellent extension to Easily Amused. Also a great climb for someone looking to try something harder than a 5.10a without requiring stamina or a strong lead head.
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Sep 28, 2012

I tried this the other day. I wussed out on the crux move and pulled on a draw. I was worried if I blew it I would hit the ledge. Am I just overly scared?
By S. Neoh
Sep 28, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I had/have exactly the same worry since we tend to do both pitches as one climb (think landing on ankle with rope stretch). I have yet to lead this one clean. :(
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Sep 28, 2012

I had to downclimb from the first bolt cause I was too scared blowing the clip. I think if I prehang a draw on that crux bolt it will make it easier for me to clip it before im half way into the crux.
By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Sep 30, 2012

I did notice a lot of these bolts were loose. I tried to tighten them as much as I could.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 31, 2013

I jumped on this route the other day. I think it's a nice addition to the plot wall. I definitely agree with the crimpy crux and didn't quite stick it for the flash. Hoping to get on this one again soon and send it.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Finally got around to finishing this one. I went up and left to clip the crux bolt, then came down and kept more right to pull the moves. Definitely felt a little more than 10b, and kinda similar in nature to the low crimpy crux of Millennium Falcon.
By Peter Jackson
From: Rumney, NH
Nov 17, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I noticed that the left anchor nut tends to come loose because the tension from a rappel on the rings turns the nut and hanger counter-clockwise. It's been loose every time I've topped out on this route, so I extended it with a couple quicklinks and put clips on it.

Hopefully that keeps things a bit more snug and keeps your ropes happy! Please don't TR on the quick clips. Thanks!
By Ben Huber
4 days ago

also thought this was around 10c, I blew out just above the crux and came pretty close to decking on the ledge. I thought the transition between that second clip above the ledge to the crimps to the right was quite thin and difficult.