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 ADVANCED
Section 13
Select Route:
Arrow Head Left T,TR 
Arrowhead Direct TR 
Arrowhead Left T,TR 
Brenda's Last Fling TR 
Digit Damage T,TR 
Equinox T,TR 
In Limbo TR 
In The Valley T,TR 
Junk Culture TR 
Lower Slab TR 
Macho Pitchu TR 
Minas Tirith TR 
Path of Fierce Black Wolves, The TR 
Reading Braille TR 
Rubble Trouble T,TR 
Rubble Trouble Direct T 
Seam's Hard TR 
We Don't Need No Steenkin Ledges TR 

Rubble Trouble 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 554
Submitted By: Sam Daley on Aug 9, 2010

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Description 

Climb the striking detached pillar. This feature creates two distinct lines. On climbers right the pillar forms an off width crack. Or, Traverse the base of the pillar. On climbers left the pillar forms a dihedral and hand crack. According to Farris these variations are 5.8 and 5.6 respectively. After surmounting the sharp pillar trend left on great rock to a thin crack. Rubble Trouble Direct (5.9) diverges into the finger crack to the right.

Location 

Locate the prow to the climbers left of the slab. This climb is located off of the climbers left side of this prow. The start of this climb is the inspiring detached pillar bellow.

Protection 

Medium nuts, large hexes, and tri-cams. The unique surface of the rock makes placing cams difficult but lends itself to the placement of tri-cams. If you lead the off width bring a couple of pieces that are larger than 5 inches.


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By Sam Daley
From: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Aug 9, 2010

Just for fun we did this in two pitches. A full 70 meter rappel takes you to the base of an easy fifth class scramble. The scramble leads to a small ledge at the base of the pillar.