Rubberman 5.13b
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| Type: | TR |
| Consensus: | 5.13b [details] |
| FA: | Eric Zschiesche |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Jan 1, 2005 |
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FA. Rubberman.
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Description Perhaps the most "doable" of the Devil's Lake 5.13's, Rubberman is a deserved neo-classic. The wall is quite steep by DL standards and the moves feel more sport-like than the other vertical crimping nightmares (like Ice) found in the in the park.
Locate the steep wall left of Boy Scout. The climb starts out with a very difficult and strange mantle move. Start on the jug, and move left hand up to a two finger crimp. Perch your right foot on the jug and reach right hand to a gaston at full extension. Once stabilized, match your left hand to the right, catching the gaston as a sidepul and checking the violent swing. This sequence is probably about V8, though it is difficult to grade such a circus move.
From here, fun, pumpy and still hard climbing continues to the top. This top section feels like hard 5.12. The right corner is off, though it doesn't seem that tempting.
Protection TR. People have talked about leading this, but to my knowledge it has not been done.
Working the hard moves after the mantle. The send ...
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Beginning the crux mantle on Rubberman. Note the l...
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Climbing the hard moves after the mantle. The send...
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Beginning the mantle sequence. The move is not esp...
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Starting Rubberman. Photo: J. Dobbe
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Dobbe into the high-step move.
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It would appear,.. by the rich verdant hues of...
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 29, 2005
| jay,is there actually any gear on this thing or should i say gear that would hold a fall? |
By rich bechler
Apr 1, 2005
| hard route.gear would be very dicey.I did the 3rd ascent after eric and Dave .I have real good Betta which I will trade for narcotics. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 1, 2005
| Rich,Ok, so you do the really hard mantle move, and you stand up on the good foot. You move right and up now--but how far right? Is the right corner on? Am I thinking of the correct hold near the corner? I believe passing a small roof may be cruxy--are there any moves harder than the mantle? Any info would be appreciated. |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 4, 2005
| To answer my own questions: there are no holds anywhere near the right corner, and the corner is definately off. I tried the route for a couple of days, and came soooo close. I just couldn't figure out how to weight the right-hand gaston after rocking up on the good foot. (anybody know the beta?)
This route is absolutely classic, with weird, balancy moves at the start, giving way to beautiful powerful moves through a small roof and up a tight corner. Plus, unlike many hard routes at DL, there are actually holds on the thing. |
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
May 11, 2005
| I'd love to watch someone climb this route. Thanks so much for the great pictures Jay. Incredible! |
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 17, 2009
| Rubberman felt good today, the weather was beautiful. First move felt hard(as my tips were very sore), but better than the last time I was on it. No send yet, but overall this route is super fun, and oh yeah- hard. |
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