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Brinton's Buttress
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Berkeley T,TR 
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Brinton's Crack T 
Brinton's Direct T,TR 
Cheap Thrills T,TR 
Chiaroscuro TR 
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) TR 
Chicago T,TR 
Evanston Township T,TR 
Evanston Township Direct T,TR 
Golf Road TR 
Puff N' Grunt Chimney T 
Rococo Variations T,TR 
Rubberman TR 
Sheep Thrills T,TR 
South Side T 
Stool Pigeon T 

Rubberman 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Eric Zschiesche
Page Views: 3,056
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jan 1, 2005

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It would appear,.. by the rich verdant hues of...

Description 

Perhaps the most "doable" of the Devil's Lake 5.13's, Rubberman is a deserved neo-classic. The wall is quite steep by DL standards and the moves feel more sport-like than the other vertical crimping nightmares (like Ice) found in the in the park.

Locate the steep wall left of Boy Scout. The climb starts out with a very difficult and strange mantle move. Start on the jug, and move left hand up to a two finger crimp. Perch your right foot on the jug and reach right hand to a gaston at full extension. Once stabilized, match your left hand to the right, catching the gaston as a sidepul and checking the violent swing. This sequence is probably about V8, though it is difficult to grade such a circus move.

From here, fun, pumpy and still hard climbing continues to the top. This top section feels like hard 5.12. The right corner is off, though it doesn't seem that tempting.

Protection 

TR. People have talked about leading this, but to my knowledge it has not been done.


Photos of Rubberman Slideshow Add Photo
Working the hard moves after the mantle. The send will have to wait for another day.
Working the hard moves after the mantle. The send ...
Starting Rubberman. Photo: J. Dobbe
Starting Rubberman. Photo: J. Dobbe
Beginning the crux mantle on Rubberman. Note the left-hand crimp.
Beginning the crux mantle on Rubberman. Note the l...
Beginning the mantle sequence. The move is not especially powerful, but very subtle. Once your right foot is on the good hold, standing up on the foot is the crux of the route.
Beginning the mantle sequence. The move is not esp...
FA. Rubberman.
FA. Rubberman.
Dobbe into the high-step move.
Dobbe into the high-step move.
Climbing the hard moves after the mantle. The send has to wait for another day.
Climbing the hard moves after the mantle. The send...

Comments on Rubberman Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 29, 2005

jay,is there actually any gear on this thing or should i say gear that would hold a fall?
By rich bechler
Apr 1, 2005

hard route.gear would be very dicey.I did the 3rd ascent after eric and Dave .I have real good Betta which I will trade for narcotics.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 1, 2005

Rich,Ok, so you do the really hard mantle move, and you stand up on the good foot. You move right and up now--but how far right? Is the right corner on? Am I thinking of the correct hold near the corner? I believe passing a small roof may be cruxy--are there any moves harder than the mantle? Any info would be appreciated.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 4, 2005

To answer my own questions: there are no holds anywhere near the right corner, and the corner is definitely off. I tried the route for a couple of days, and came soooo close. I just couldn't figure out how to weight the right-hand gaston after rocking up on the good foot. (anybody know the beta?)

This route is absolutely classic, with weird, balancy moves at the start, giving way to beautiful powerful moves through a small roof and up a tight corner. Plus, unlike many hard routes at DL, there are actually holds on the thing.
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
May 11, 2005

I'd love to watch someone climb this route. Thanks so much for the great pictures Jay. Incredible!
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 17, 2009

Rubberman felt good today, the weather was beautiful. First move felt hard(as my tips were very sore), but better than the last time I was on it. No send yet, but overall this route is super fun, and oh yeah- hard.