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Rubarama 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Colacino and Doug Donato
Page Views: 1,414
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Nov 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Spot the pillar looking feature to easily find the...

Description 

To access the clean, long corner, you have to climb a short thirty foot seam by hard to protect 11+/12- moves to a ledge. From there, it is excellent climbing that is sustained. The book says to break it up into 4 or so pitches, but three long pitches make it a fun sustained climb.

P1. Climb from the 5.11+ on thin gear and to right below the obvious roof and belay (200ft).

P2. 2nd pitch is 170 to a nice ledge.

P3. Last pitch is about 50 feet or so with most of it being easy 5th classing to the top.


Location 

The route is about 200 yds from Unknown 1 and two. It is the only obvious, sustained corner. To get down, you have to walk about 0.2 of mile to the rap station of Dog Day Afternoon.


Protection 

For the beginning bring green C3 or black Alien or Ball nuts. After that you it is nice to have doubles all the way to #4 Camalot with one #5 and triples of #0.3-2. If you break the climb up into more pitches, then you could do less gear.



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After the roof, the corner keeps going for a long while, quality!!
BETA PHOTO: After the roof, the corner keeps going for a long ...
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By Matt Lisenby
Apr 2, 2009

Kim & I freed the lower section in about 2002. Gear was thin and the climbing was and leaning & off balance - great fun. We felt like it was around 5.11+. I remember mining dirt out of the crack for nut placements. Overall, I thought this route is one of the best in Unaweep canyon, its one of the few I've been happy to repeat. It's a striking line from top to bottom with very little opportunity for getting lost/distracted or off route - all of which are par for the course in most multi-pitch Unaweep experiences.

By Laeserguns
Jun 12, 2013

Pizem sent MB and I up here last week. Great route! A little tricky at the bottom, but after that it follows some amazing 5.10 with a little bit of everything. Definitely one of the finer routes in Unaweep.