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Rubaiyat Spire

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Rubaiyat Spire Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris treggE on May 22, 2012
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Moving Finger in the foreground. Rubaiyat Spire i...


This spire is shorter and downhill from Khayyam spire. Both Khayyam and Rubaiyat were named by Beckey (a Rubaiyat is a four line poem, in this case by Omar Khayyam). There are several lines up this. The original Conn line is 2 pitches from the downhill (southwest) side, or you can get up in one pitch from the north side.

An example of a Rubaiyat of Khayyam:

If with wine you are drunk be happy,
If seated with a moon-faced (beautiful), be happy,
Since the end purpose of the universe is nothing-ness;
Hence picture your nothing-ness, then while you are, be happy!

Getting There 

Follow the Spires trail until the last and largest fork off to the right towards the gulleys. Walk uphill toward the spires until you see the obvious yellow wall on Khayyam. Look for the shorter spire right in front of Khayyam.

Climbing Season

For the Cathedral Spires area.

Weather station 5.0 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Rubaiyat Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Rubaiyat Spire:
Kamps Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Rubaiyat Spire

Featured Route For Rubaiyat Spire
Rock Climbing Photo: Start on top of the higher block shown here.  Gett...

Kamps Route 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Rubaiyat Spire
This is a well protected but still somewhat spicy lead up the north face of the spire. Follow discontinuous cracks up the vertical face until a large ledge when it is possible and logical to traverse left into an rightward arching chimney. Make your way up this chimney and consider belaying your second from the top of the flake to lessen rope drag. The second pitch (if you choose to make it a second pitch) then clips a bolt across the chasm made by the flake, and moves up and right into a fla...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Rubaiyat Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Khayyam spire has the yellow wall in the middle of...
Khayyam spire has the yellow wall in the middle of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rubaiyat.
Rock Climbing Photo: Paradise Enow?
BETA PHOTO: Paradise Enow?

Comments on Rubaiyat Spire Add Comment
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By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
May 22, 2012
Can a South Dakota administrator move the "east face" route posted by Marek on Khayyam to this spire? Makes more sense to have this spire seperate from Khayyam.

Also, if someone who has done the Conn route up the west face could add it that would be awesome.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
May 23, 2012
I have not. We did the north face route.

Again if anyone has done the 5.8 Conn route up the south and west face, please add it. I could copy it from Touch the Sky but would be better for someone who has done it to list it.
By Jon Marek
From: Fall City, WA
May 25, 2012
Hey, I have move the east face route. Sorry if the description still fails to "inspire". Don't let me keep you from trying the route though, I promise it is better than my description.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
May 25, 2012
Thanks Jon. I wonder if what you describe was the original aid line first used in 1952 to get to the summit. Cool.

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