The largest crag in the Frankenjura, Roethelfels offers up some of the greatest variety. Difficulties range from UIAA 2 to 9+ (5.2 to 5.13a). Rock quality ranges from bullet hard to chossy. Bring a helmet and some nuts to be on the safe side. Best time for climbing is in the spring and fall. The walls face from southwest to southeast, with the majority of the wall facing south-southwest.
From Forchheim head down the B470 toward Goessweinstein. After about 10km and before you get to Ebermannstadt, head right toward Pretzfeld and Egloffstein. When you get into Wannbach, take the road towards Morschreuth. Drive through Urspring and after 1.2 km there's a parking lot on the right with a trail leading up the hill on the left. Hike straight up the trail to get to the right side of Roethelfels, or follow the forest service road further left to reach the left-most sectors. The GPS coordinates point roughly to where the parking area is.
Home to the the famous Lederhosen-Beer-Free-Solo-pic of Kurt Albert. 3 (spaced) bolts get you to the start of the great part of the route. After some fist jams and a fourth bolt you get to the powerful but juggy crux....[more]Browse More Classics in International