Wide chimney stemming, big jugs, big moves on slopey sidepulls, a tenuous pinch, and a balancy crimp or two. This route has some fun moves and has a great feeling of exposure up high.
Start by scrambling up the chimney between the face with the big roof and the face to the right. Start stemming and clip the first bolt. Think about transitioning to the face. Decide "That looks pretty hard; I'll stem up a bit and clip the next bolt and then try the face". Repeat. After the third bolt, transition to the face on some big jugs and think, "Did I just cheat?"
Continue up the somewhat steeper upper face on big jugs and think, "This doesn't feel as hard as 5.10a; I must have cheated". Run out of jugs, make some tenuous, balancy moves as well as some big sweeping, layback-style moves and think, "Oh, this explains it."
All in all, quite a fun route if you can overcome your guilt at not trying the 5.2-hard-for-me face with the first three bolts.
This is the right-most bolted route on the west face of P.A.'s Mother that is split by the large roof.
7 bolts to hanger-and-ring anchors.
Kip Henrie starting up R.R. Crossing.
"Hey! Where'd all the big holds go?"
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
Dec 11, 2007
Added correct name and FA info per Darren Knezek.
|By Jeff Jones|
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Nov 15, 2008
I really enjoyed this route. I was wondering whether I was doing it right at the beginning and like the description says...I was thinking "this can't be .10a". The top part is definitely the crux and a move or two for which I was glad for my reach.
From: StGeorge Orem Littlton Vegas
May 5, 2009
Awesome route description....I wish they all came like this!
|By Tristan Higbee|
May 7, 2009
I thought this was a great route. As is said in the route description, the crux is near the top. Very enjoyable climbing throughout on (mostly) positive holds.
|By Alma Madsen|
From: Lehi, UT
Apr 17, 2010
Really fun climb, and a great warm-up route, as it starts out easy and gets more challenging at the top.