Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Ice Cream Parlor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10 TR 
5.6 Corner 
A Good Day to Die 
Bastardized Old Route 
Black Slab 
Brewed Awakenings 
Brush Your Teeth 
Coffin Crack 
Crack 2 
Crack 3 
Critical Mass 
Epidemic 
Freezer Burn 
Hot Karl Sunday 
Ice Cream Parlor Crack 
Jumbletron, The 
Knee Grinder 
Kura Buran 
Left Slab 
Linda's Way 
Nightlight 
Pandemic 
Parlor Game 
Pork Soda 
Possessed 
Rain 
Rattler 
RP City 
Slab Route 
Space Ghost 
T-Rex 
Vanilla Cream 
Wolverine 
Unsorted Routes:

RP City 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tom Gilje, Julie Sheld, 1995
Page Views: 1,072
Submitted By: Greg D on Jan 26, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Any Questions?

Description 

This is a great route as it tests your nerves more than anything.

Start up easy cracks and ledges. Then commit to the thin seam up and left. Place gear when it is available because placements are intermittent but good when you get them, although gear may occupy your only hold at times. When the crack peters out move up and left to the 2 bolt anchor.
In the middle of the climb you can move out left, do a few face moves and back right to the crack for a slightly easier option as the crack and friction moves feel pretty desperate here. If you toprope this climb be sure to have the rope a bit "loose" as any tension can make this climb quite a bit easier.


Location 

This route is on the far right side of the Ice Cream Parlor slabs. It starts 30 feet right of the bolted line HOT CARL SUNDAY which is just right of Crack 1 (aka WOLVERINE). It is also about 80 feet left of A Good Day To Die. This route is unmistakable, it is one of a kind for this area as it is a very thin seam/crack splitting beautifully varnished rock to a 2 bolt anchor(was a 1 bolt anchor for many years until spring 07).

This route is incorrectly described on the topo of Rock Climbing Utah showing it climbing the arete on the right side of the slabs. That is a different yet good climb which starts from the far right side of the ledge, past one bolt, into the crack/corner, finishing over a small roof just right of the arete (about 10a). Single 60m rope rappel just barely get you back to the ledge. Caution: the ledge is about 20 feet above the ground.


Protection 

small cams and nuts/rp's up to 2 inches, heavy on the small stuff.



Comments on RP City Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -