|Type:||Trad, 18 pitches, 1500', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||James Garrett, Tim Toula, and Peter Krainz, 26 July, 2010|
|Season:||Summer and Fall|
|Submitted By:||James Garrett on Aug 3, 2010|
|Comments on Royal Rocklette Arête||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By James Garrett
Sep 14, 2010
"Res, wi het so vil Zit chönnä verga sit du vo üs gangä bisch? I redä mit diär all Tag. So wi denn am Flughafä vo Amman, das het miär so vil bedütet. Hiä ds Colorado isch ä witäri Routä für dig, Res, obwohl ig sicher bi, dass si net so homogen isch, wi du das gärn hättisch. Diä Plaisir-Routä isch für dig, mi Brüätsch. Diner Gescht würdes liäbä sä mit diär z machä. Jitzä si hiä i derä Gägend zwo lengi Plaisir-Routinä diär gwidmet... sogar dr Zuäschtig isch numä füf Minuti! Irgendinisch, weni umi schtarch gnuä bi, würdi ni diä Routä so gärn mit Remo machä.
Du bisch mis Härz, Resli. Du machsches z schlah i dirä Abwäsähit. Du machsches z füählä. Du werisch so schtolz uf diner zwü grossartigä Chind Remo u Vera... das isch ja o sälbschtverschtendlig, si hi schliässlig ä Bärner-Muätter. Was brucht mä meh i disem Läbä odr im nägschtä?"
Thanks to Corinne for the perfect translation into Res' beautiful Oberland Dialect on the one year anniversary of his death.
By Rob Griz
Oct 3, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Found the time to hit the Rocklette. Another nice line on Royal done in similar style to the Flush. A great option to the newly-popular Flush route, allows you to also pass parties to the summit.
A few tips on the line:
1. Upon reaching the talus field, trend left, low. Don't walk up to the base of the headwall and go left as this cliffs you out on some shitty slabs. Cairns mark the way through talus and the fir trees to the base of the Arete proper.
2. The crux move is almost right off the deck and 'on' for the grade, but don't let it hold you back from trying. Looks possible to aide through via a flared finger crack. The lichen is heavy, I'd never be up there when it could be wet.
3. We led it basically in 2- 70m pitches. Link Ps 12-13 and 14-16, soloed the 4th a short way (15m) to the gully descent.
4. P-13 seems more like 5.9 than 5.10, depending on your comfort level with lichen-covered rock.
5. We didn't use any trad gear, the bolts were in places you needed them to be. Took along 18-20 QDs to link multiple pitches (we ran the Flush route from the base to the Rocklette Arete in 3 pitches simul-climbing, under 50 mins.)
6. My guess is that the last true 'pitch' is marked by another old red rope tied around a cool flake. You can summit and walk off via the hiking trail (best idea for most) or descend the gully immediately to the left. If you take the gully descent, descend 100m to a constriction/slab area. You will need to make two, back-2-back 30m rappels (single 60m rope). There is a short walk between rappels, you will see where you need to make the 2nd rap. From there, you are at an overhanging wall/cave area, look around the corner, it's the start of the Arete route. Follow down and right a bit (through some small talus), picking your way down slabs and steep, slippery, loose "game trail". At some point near the bottom, you will pick up a steep, dirt gully that angles to the right below a steep face, follow it down and left, passing an old gated mine shaft. Good foot trail leads to the fenced natural gas pipeline adjacent to the bike path, pass around to the right. This descent is EXPOSED a bit in places and is not really recommended, especially in the dark!
My 2-cents, Enjoy! Griz
Sep 20, 2011
|For those wishing to exhibit bad judgment as my partner and I did, know that climbing this route in the rain adds an exciting element. Even the easy pitches down low were a full on slip-and-slide. The arete above the crux pitch was quite hard without using your feet. Totally worth it! Probably good when it's dry too....|
By Brady Robinson
Oct 5, 2011
|I agree with John - our rain ascent was memorable and fun! The crux was so wet that chalk made the holds much worse and involved a few campus moves with feet dangling uselessly below. That said, there is enough friction to climb this route when it is wet, the lichens aren't that bad. I nearly killed John with a rock which had been hiding in a bush during an attempt to sneak past a slabby crux down low. The many bolts keep the commitment level relatively low. A fun romp, not quite three star quality IMO but worth doing nonetheless.|
By Mike Bannister
Jul 14, 2013
|The crux 5.11a and 5.10 pitches after it are very worth doing. After that, it turns into an adventure scramble that may or may not be your bag. Take care on the upper pitches not to knock rocks onto the Royal Flush.|