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This route is mostly a seam which opens up to take pro every body length. Its a heady lead but ends up protecting well. Just like the other routs in the area, it usually needs to be cleaned since it doesn't see the traffic that Y-crack does.
This route is twenty feet left of Y-crack.
I take one set of aliens up to red, one hand-to-large sized piece for the bottom flare, and one set of stoppers. Alien offsets also come in handy on this one. Make sure to bring a small stopper to protect the crux which is a key hole like placement in a steep section of a groove. It is only a move or two to get past the crux before a finger tip sized stopper can be placed on the right side of the groove. A continuous finger crack then begins and runs all the way to the anchor. Ideally, you would want a green, yellow, and red alien to finish off the top third of the pitch. There is a bolted rappel anchor at the top and can be rappelled with one 60m rope.
Jan 1, 2010
A huge tree branch was hiding this crack. The branch broke in winter 2008 opening the line for climbing. Otherwise, this line would have pin scars in it. Similar to the story behind Grant's crack.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Mar 5, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Fun little problem and a great TR after climbing Y Crack. You can also climb a 5.3 corner to the left to access the TR anchors. For bonus points, climb the flare that comes up from beneath the starting platform - about 5.7 or so.