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Southern Pillar
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Ambush T 
Appendicitis T 
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Climbin' Punishment T 
Craving fo Pink T 
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Electric Chair T 
Fear of Flying T 
Gebhardt-Duffy T 
Great Chimney T 
Hidden Gem T,S 
Judgement Seat T 
Lemur, The T 
Point Man T 
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Roy Gap Chimney's T 
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Roy Gap Chimney's 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,919
Submitted By: Christian Mason on Jul 19, 2007  with updates from Brian Malone

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Squeezin' it.


Start at the slab leading to the obvious chimney West (climbers right) of the fin that forms Gephart-Dufty (the northernmost part of the pillar).

Climb it to the obvious chimney. Cold shuts after about 30 feet of squeeze chimney. Belay here or continue up the chimney to the another set of shuts (about 8 feet above you after you step right out of the chimney).

The third pitch trends up and left for about 50 feet from here, not really worth doing.

Either rap into the chimney or make one double rope rap outside it to the ground.


PG pro. Fixed anchors, no fixed gear that I recall.

Photos of Roy Gap Chimney's Slideshow Add Photo
P1 goes up face past the small tree on the right a...
P1 goes up face past the small tree on the right a...
From the shuts.
From the shuts.

Comments on Roy Gap Chimney's Add Comment
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By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Jun 26, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

An interesting route regardless of your ability level. Seems to be the scene of the occasional epic and/or rockfall. The first pitch might not be the best choice for a budding 5.6 leader.
By Dave Carey
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

awesome climb, my first multipitch trad lead and a good choice. I felt it might have been harder than a 5.6, maybe 5.7, but coulda been my lack of chimney skills.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Aug 1, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A good variation is to do "Roy Gap Punishment". Climb the first pitch of Climbin' Punishment until you're pretty much above the chimney then traverse over and up to the shuts on Roy Gap Chimneys. Goes at about 5.7.

Also, the best descent from the top of P2 (by the 'fridge block) is off to climber's right, especially if someone else is coming up the route and you only have one rope. Rap down to the set of rap rings atop Electric Chair/Judgment Seat and from there to the ground.
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