Roy Gap Chimenys
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P1 goes up face past the small tree on the right a...
Start at the slab leading to the obvious chimney West (climbers right) of the fin that forms Gephart-Dufty (the northernmost part of the pillar).
Climb it to the obvious chimney. Cold shuts after about 30 feet of squeeze chimney. Belay here or continue up the chimney to the another set of shuts (about 8 feet above you after you step right out of the chimney).
The third pitch trends up and left for about 50 feet from here, not really worth doing.
Either rap into the chimney or make one double rope rap outside it to the ground.
PG pro. Fixed anchors, no fixed gear that I recall.
From the shuts.
|Comments on Roy Gap Chimenys
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Jun 26, 2008
An interesting route regardless of your ability level. Seems to be the scene of the occasional epic and/or rockfall. The first pitch might not be the best choice for a budding 5.6 leader.
|By Dave Carey|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 12, 2011
awesome climb, my first multipitch trad lead and a good choice. I felt it might have been harder than a 5.6, maybe 5.7, but coulda been my lack of chimney skills.
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Aug 1, 2011
A good variation is to do "Roy Gap Punishment". Climb the first pitch of Climbin' Punishment until you're pretty much above the chimney then traverse over and up to the shuts on Roy Gap Chimneys. Goes at about 5.7.
Also, the best descent from the top of P2 (by the 'fridge block) is off to climber's right, especially if someone else is coming up the route and you only have one rope. Rap down to the set of rap rings atop Electric Chair/Judgment Seat and from there to the ground.