The guidebook lists this as a 5.9 but there is no way it goes any harder than 5.6. Great beginner trad lead.
Right smack in the middle of the Tan Wall. Look for a glue-in eye bolt about 15' off the ground just above a small roof to start. Get a #2 or #3 Camalot under the roof for a first piece. Continue straight up the juggy face, placing as much medium-sized pro as you want.
Top out on a ledge to two glue-ins with c-links.
Middle of Tan Wall at Meadow River area near New River Gorge.
#2 or #3 Camalot, set of nuts. Should only require 4-6 pieces depending on your comfort level.
|By Kristan Markey|
From: Washington, DC
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Williams guidebook indicates that there are 5 bolts to the anchors, but as MP route notes, there are only two.
Also, the location is 100 feet or so before the main lines of the Tan Wall as you're coming down the trail from the parking. Hard to see the bolts, but the trail is noticeable.
From: Rye, NY
Jun 3, 2013
I can confirm all but the first two bolts are gone... that was not a fun surprise. I didn't have gear to finish the route, but the climbing seemed much easier than 5.8 which is what the book called it. The rock seemed pretty crumbly though and it looked like there were a number of broken off holds on the route.