Rowdy Joe Bad 5.11c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Bob Scarpelli, Wake Griffith, Jen Hanft |
| Submitted By: | Joe Collins on Jul 19, 2003 |
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Description This short, deceptive slab is located immediately to the right of Get up that Tree.
One of our party jumped on this climb (which is not listed in Heel & Toe) thinking it was going to be an easy 5.8 or 5.9 romp up the slab. Not to be.
The climbing is easy up to the 2nd bolt, where a sequence of very difficult slab and edging moves marks the crux. The hardest move uses a sharp pinch flake that is not long for this world. This climb could warrant an 'S' rating for the 5.9/10 mantle that comes at the end of the crux sequence getting to the 3rd bolt... blowing it here could result in a hard fall onto the lower angled part of the slab below.
We thought this climb was at least 11a, and probably more like 11b.
Protection 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
| Comments on Rowdy Joe Bad |
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By Joe Collins
Jul 21, 2003
| I checked out the vedauwoo.org website which lists this climb as "Rowdy Joe Bad" and grades it 5.11c. |
By Wade Griffith
Jan 15, 2006
| Yes, the climb is Rowdy Joe Bad- named after Bob Scarpelli's pitbull after he intimidated a group from Boulder at the base of the crag. Think we called it an 11b and is not that serious if you have a long ape index for clippin the crux bolt, shorter people would have to make an exposed 5.9 move. FA was me and Bob as well as Jen Hanft. |
By BretWith1T
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Sep 18, 2010
| Hanft has no "p". I usually don't correct spelling, but it's my wife, for God's sake; I gotta stand up for something. |
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