Roving for Love  5.11c R

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Type:  Trad FA:  Suggested by R. Briggs and Levin Submitted By:  Steve Levin on Jan 1, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

There are so many great linkups in Eldorado..some take on a personality beyond the scope of any individual pitch of the combination. One of my favorites is a linkup of two classic 70s trad 5.11 routes, Rover and Love Minus Zero- with a little preamble to get the nerve wires firing. Climb "Suparete" (described elsewhere) to begin. From the top of the Lower Ramp find the base of Ruper. Climb Ruper until out R of the corner, nearing the Ruper Crack, and belay. Now climb at 5.11c the steep arete that forms on the left of the large flake which has the Ruper Crack as its right border. This pitch (Roll Over Rover) is a compelling face climbing challenge with some thin gear to three bolts. The clip-ins...are just fine. Belay at nice big bolts atop a nice ledge i.e. Ruper belay below and L of the Ruper Traverse. Now climb up, eventually trending L in a slanting crack system (5.10 R) to the obvious break in the roof above- a ramp leaning out right across the roof- which is climbed with some ingenuity (and long slings) past a good bolt and some runout 5.9+ above. A long pitch, but if you runner your gear right should not cause undue rope drag hardships. Skid down the Upper Ramp portion of the Upper Meadow and find the base of T2. L of T2 is a beautiful, lichenous wall, steep and appealing, which yields a half-rope length of excellent 5.9+ climbing before nearing a ledge to the L with rap slings. Rather than belay there, climb into the obvious, L-facing corner above, a poorly protected 5.10a section, just off-balance enough to require digging for the right level of concentration and balance. Belay below the imposing roof with a crack splitting it, up and to your L. The roof is what most people would consider the crux of the linkup (5.11c PGish), and is pretty pumpy compared to those gym 5.11s. An exciting, gripping pitch to lead- or to follow! Above the roof follow Upper Redgarten nebulous terrain to the top and the East Slabs descent. This combo certainly covers some exquisite Eldo-terrain, and provides a nice remembrance of 70s glory-days 5.11. Alternatively this link-up could be called Roving for Zero, depending upon which side of the romance coin you happen to be at.

Protection 

Include RPs or HBs, and aliens or TCUs. Cams to 3". Slings and carabiners. A nice edging shoe would help.