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routes to hit at rumney?



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By Jaysen Henderson
Jun 8, 2011
me on the top of lower beer walls

hey guys im heading to rumney for 3 days the 17th through 20th for my birthday and wanted to see if anyone wanted to shoot out some climbs that are must do's. on the list so far is wiamaya and flesh for lulu and social outcast. please add on to the list i haveto keep busy! im climbing into 5.12 and im all about face climbs.


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Jun 9, 2011

hmm face climbs

100% columbian at parking lot

med dose madness at meadows

captain fingers at Apocolypse

technosurfing at waimea

luau at waimea if it's dry


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By Lanky
From Portland, ME
Jun 9, 2011

Pump Up the Volume at 5.8 Crag

Flesh for Lulu at the Meadows is kind of a face climb. Slightly slabby at the bottom, slightly steep at the top.


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Jun 9, 2011
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

There's also Venus. I'm not sure if that qualifies as facey; maybe it's more endurancy. Facey endurance.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Jun 9, 2011
El Chorro

Flyin' Hawaiian is one of the wilder sport routes I've ever done.


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By Francisco Di Poi
From Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2011

flyin hawaiian......+1

Good Earth is also a cool climb, I never sent it but its short and sweet and close to the road


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Jun 9, 2011
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look scrubbing a new route.

Rumney has quality face climbs, but a good proportion of the best routes, especially in the 12 range have a mixture of features. If they are dry, Orange Crush has a number of very good, longish climbs that have face sections, but also usually a bulges, corners and aretes in the 11 and 12 range that I highly recommend, such as Captain Hook, Buried Treasure, Prime Climb, Black Mamba and The Crusher.

If you only have a few days and haven't visited Rumney before, aside from some of the better already suggested routes at the meadow, I would head up the hill some. I think the climbing is better and it will be likely less buggy then say the 5.8 crag. Definitely get on flesh for Lulu (maybe warm up on Curly 5.8+ and Idiot's Deluxe 5.10+ to the right a bit)

A great hard 12 face climb you may want to get on while at Waimea is Great White. You can easily set up a TR on it after doing Waimea. Make sure you get on these 2 while the sun is not blasting on them or you will roast.


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