|By M Sprague |
From New England
Jun 9, 2011
Rumney has quality face climbs, but a good proportion of the best routes, especially in the 12 range have a mixture of features. If they are dry, Orange Crush has a number of very good, longish climbs that have face sections, but also usually a bulges, corners and aretes in the 11 and 12 range that I highly recommend, such as Captain Hook, Buried Treasure, Prime Climb, Black Mamba and The Crusher.
If you only have a few days and haven't visited Rumney before, aside from some of the better already suggested routes at the meadow, I would head up the hill some. I think the climbing is better and it will be likely less buggy then say the 5.8 crag. Definitely get on flesh for Lulu (maybe warm up on Curly 5.8+ and Idiot's Deluxe 5.10+ to the right a bit)
A great hard 12 face climb you may want to get on while at Waimea is Great White. You can easily set up a TR on it after doing Waimea. Make sure you get on these 2 while the sun is not blasting on them or you will roast.