By Layne Wyse From Pgh, PA Dec 7, 2010
| New River Gorge and Red River Gorge. Spring is excellent, though not as good as fall. Sounds like you have a good chunk of time to spend, so if you wanted you could easily devote weeks to each location and never get sick of it. Both areas will offer the occasional break of comfortable weather from Jan-early March, but will be consistently good late March-May. June really starts to heat up, with corresponding nasty humidity. I haven't really climbed extensively around the country, but am quite familiar with the New and with Shelf Road (southern CO) which would provide a beautiful high desert setting and great camping, and is climbable throughout the winter. As for New specifics, if 12 sport is your game, Meadow River and Endless Wall can keep you quite busy. Meadow offers a little more "wild" feel, and Endless affords fantastic views and excellent exposure. Summersville Lake offers stacks of high quality 10s-12s with an interesting setting on the reservoir which doesn't start to fill until spring. Bubba City isn't as interesting of a setting but has high quality routes in all grades. A few route suggestions at the New: Masuko 11a, @ Whippoorwill Long Wall at Summersville Lake - 10s and 11s of supreme quality, such as: Jesus is my License Plate 10d For What? 10b World at War 11d Maximum Overdrive 11c Satisfaction Guaranteed 11a At Endless: Legacy 11a Discombobulated 11b Strike a Scowl 10b Fool Effect 5.9 (easy but fun, long, and rewarding) Aesthetica 11c Stim-o-Stam 11c At Bubba City: Immaculate Combustion 10d Sheer Energy 11a At Cotton Top: Q-Tip 11b End of Innocence 11c Cottonmouth 10a I could go on, but I'll stop. The stone at the New and the Red is so fantastic. If you find yourself wishing you were a little stronger for your favorite route at the New, head to the Red for a bit and you will bulk up. All three places have excellent new guidebooks and the star ratings will give you a good start as far as what is not to be missed. Have fun. |  FLAG |