I know that mt. Kinabalu has the highest via ferrata in the world, but I have also heard there are technical routes on the mountain. I found an article that says Yuji Hirayama set up 4 routes, but I can't find any beta anywhere. Does anyone have any info on these routes, or is the info protected by guide services?

I remember coming across something a while back... no idea where. Google :)


Edited to add that it took me about 30 seconds to find something via Google.

What exactly are you searching in google? I can get via feratta routes and trip reports about routes, but no specific beta. This is the closest i've found:
www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/malaysia07/index.html

I haven't been up there in almost 20 years now, but I can tell you this; the rock is pretty young for granite and, though it sees more erosion than any other summit, the faces tend to not be too featured. Also, its fractured more like an onion than through the entire depth of the summit dome. Not too many splitters like Yosemite. If you go, plan on being covered up at all times. Its either raining (with lots of lightning) or its intense sun. Its the only place where I ever sunburned my hands!

Thanks for the info, Sam. I'll be sport climbing in Krabi as well after Malaysia, so I gotta say thanks in advance for your work on the rebolting.

Yo man, I ran across your post and have a little bit of info for you. There are several routes on the mountain, but I do not remember the exact number. I think we climbed about 7 or 8 when we were up there about three years ago. They are cool, but the cracks can be unprotectable and often close up. Its cool climbing and really good rock if your up for it.

As far as guides, this is your best resource. We had these guys send us one.

climb-asia.com/content/view/16/28/

A note on that, we ended up not using the guide that much. If you stay on the plateau, then you will end up staying in the Gurkha Hut on the western plateau. There is a log book kept there which at the time was a great resource. It had the orignal topos from the FAs and trip reports.

Its a bit of a mission. We took a good bit of gear (for aid) and food for two weeks. We carried it all ourselves and it sucked. Hire a porter, its worth the money. We didn't have a choice, cause we were broke. That place is rad. I will probably never make it back there again, but I am psyched I made it there once. Its incredibly unique.

Also, we had amazing weather. We were warned of tons of rain, but I guess we got lucky. With one day of really strong winds being the exception. The weather only became sketchy the last couple days of our trip.

You might contact "Tony B" on this site...see his profile page for some photo's.

I did the 2 day hike to Low's peak, but I did not want to bring all my trad gear from the states. Though most of the rock is unfeatured, it still has some potential for sport climbing development. I'm not sure what the process/ethic is about bolting up there, (the roped 4th class summit is littered with bolts) but I spied a couple aesthetic lines up some of the pinnacles. (donkeys' ears and ugly sisters to name a few)