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Do the left start for Tora Tora Tora, left of the gully. Climb straight up cracks, placing gear or clipping the three recently placed, unnecessary bolts. Clip and extend the first bolt on the TTT headwall, to protect the committing crux up and left to an exposed position above the Mr. Squirrel anchors. Tiny cams can be placed in horizontals on the way up to the V-dihedral. Follow the short dihedral to the rim. Anchor with gear.
Do the left start to TTT. Finish in the short, left-facing, right-leaning V-dihedral, left of the TTT headwall.
SR, plus tiny cams and maybe small Tricams.
|Comments on Routefinding 101
|By George Bracksieck|
Nov 11, 2012
On 10/28/12, I led this and belayed Mike Endicott up.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Feb 8, 2013
The crux to me seemed like the 2nd bolt area on the Tora, Tora, Tora start. The traverse to the left seemed easier. I did not use any Tricams. The biggest piece I used was a #1 Camalot and my other gear was small cams.