Route to Glory  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Josh Warfield and AJ Smith New Route:  Yes Season:  Probably best in Fall Submitted By:  AJ Smith on Jun 25, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Shares 2 pitches with "Book of Saturdays", but removes the first pitch and the long traverse. Pitch 1- Starts on a large slab with thin cracks for protection, then traverses over to large grass filled crack. Pulling grass can reveal the pro. Large cams or large hexes are a must. Wild country #6? . Pitch 2- Belay stance is to the left of the major grassy chimney of the second pitch; Use small nuts to protect belay. Look for stuck Omega Pacific nut to find out where to set up belay. Follow the large chimney up to the roof. Some protection can be found by venturing out onto the slab, but stay mostly to the chimney. Crux can be found right before the cave area. Pull a couple of exposed moves, and Metoliuschimney up a large overhanging crack. Traverse into the cave area. Watch the loose rock, and maintain your footing. Pitch 3-Belay from the cave area; protecting this can be tricky, but there should be a protectable crack out and around the corner of the cave. Look for a stuck nut to give you and idea where to place. Head out the cave and around the arete. Easy pulls up to the top of the climb. Top out and enjoy the view!

Location 

See description

Protection 

Bring a lot of gear. A few large cams would not hurt as "O Sh*t pieces". Metolius flaring nuts are extremely helpful. They hold perfectly int he smaller cracks.