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Unsorted Routes:

Talk to Your Toes 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: kevin fox on Sep 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

This is a bolted route to the right of Blossoming Bosoms. It looks like the bolts were just put in. There is dust still left on rock at some of the bolts. We climbed it since there wasn't a red tag left on it. We liked the moves. We thought the crux was through the last few bolts at the top.


Location 

It is to the right of Blossoming Bosoms.


Protection 

Bolts to an anchor.



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By E Johnson
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2011

Tried to lead this last Labor Day (2010) but ran out of draws as I could not see exactly where it ended. Did it on TR yesterday. Both times I thought the crux was a bolt before the ledge, about bolt 3 or 4. Probably not a problem for someone tall. Other than that bit, I really enjoyed this route. I counted 9 bolts plus the anchor shared with Blossoming Busoms. It's listed in Ben's new guidebook as "New Sport Route". I think 10b is a fair rating based on the crux I encountered, but it really makes me question Talk to Your Toes being a 10a, which felt considerably harder to me and my friends. I even wondered if the ratings were mixed up by mistake....

By Chameleon
Mar 29, 2013

This route is Talk to Your Toes. Ben's book shows the bolted route to the left that has a little run out as Talk to Your Toes but that is incorrect. (I was there when it was bolted).

By Ben Schmitt
Apr 1, 2013

Thank you for the update, Chameleon, this will be corrected in the next edition. You would be surprised how difficult it was to get information regarding these routes, and information like this helps tremendously.

By nate post
May 18, 2013

This makes a great beginner lead. I thought it was over-bolted, but because of that, I got my friend to do his first lead ever, and he made it to the anchors without getting to nervous. Fun climb.