Talk to Your Toes 

Tried to lead this last Labor Day (2010) but ran out of draws as I could not see exactly where it ended. Did it on TR yesterday. Both times I thought the crux was a bolt before the ledge, about bolt 3 or 4. Probably not a problem for someone tall. Other than that bit, I really enjoyed this route. I counted 9 bolts plus the anchor shared with Blossoming Busoms. It's listed in Ben's new guidebook as "New Sport Route". I think 10b is a fair rating based on the crux I encountered, but it really makes me question Talk to Your Toes being a 10a, which felt considerably harder to me and my friends. I even wondered if the ratings were mixed up by mistake....

This route is Talk to Your Toes. Ben's book shows the bolted route to the left that has a little run out as Talk to Your Toes but that is incorrect. (I was there when it was bolted).

Thank you for the update, Chameleon, this will be corrected in the next edition. You would be surprised how difficult it was to get information regarding these routes, and information like this helps tremendously.

This makes a great beginner lead, since it is not run out at all. I thought it was over-bolted, but because of that, I got my friend to do his first lead ever, and he made it to the anchors without getting to nervous at all. Fun climb.