Route recommendations, Front Range 5.11

I'm looking for route suggestions for my girlfriend to push herself on lead, so routes with clean falls are the goal.

I'm seeking advice here because I'm 6'-5", and she's 5'-4". It's hard for me to recommend routes, because there is often a reach crux that I didn't even notice. So I'm hoping others that are closer to her height might be able to suggest routes you've enjoyed in the low to mid 5.11 range.

For now, we're looking for sport routes, but if you know of gear routes in the 10+ to 11- range that fit the criteria, I'd love to hear those as well. We spend a lot of time in Boulder Canyon, but also hit the other local zones (Clear Creek, Eldo, Flatirons, SPlatte, etc) as well. Shelf seems like it would have plenty of routes in this category, but it's out of season at the moment.

Thanks!

This time of year you will want shade.

A nice day at Avalon would be warm up on first tier, then Lust on 2nd, then the two byes
Routes at chairman of the board area. Don't bother with strange science or the 11 mext to it. Too reachy.

Sport park has two good 11s on the chicken wall plus plenty of warm ups. There's an 11 on the right side of the roof on the upper clock tower, Big Dipper which is actually quite nice and I don't think there are reach issues. The 11s on the south face of surprising crag are a little reachy.

Wall of the 90s in CCC has a bunch of excellent routes in her range, some may have the occasional long reach. Can't recall. If she gets on little kitten don't let her get discouraged. It's weird and awkward. Although still like able.

Radiometer at little eiger.

If she likes slabs, the 11s on dream dome. Just watch the sun.

I'll
Post more as I think of them.

Feel like I owe you for all
You do with the tyrols.

Wall of Justice in CCC has some soft 11s with clean falls.

Thanks Mark! And I can't take credit for the tyrols this year. Life was too busy and someone else stepped up. I've got a bit more static rope laying around, so I'll do another round next spring.

We've done a few of the routes you suggested, and I think you're on the right track. Big Dipper is on the short list...no pun intented ;-) She's led Chairman of the Board and Lust and loved both. Strange Science is definitely out, but she does like the one to the left. Definitely not 10d/11a for her, but I think she may try it soon.

I've been wanting to get back to Wall of the 90's, so we'll check those out.

We'll check out Wall of Justice as well. It looks really fun! Not too reachy?

Reefer Madness on Wall of 90's gets my vote. Just sustained crimps, not reachy and it's so crazy chalked up that you might as well be climbing in the gym. It's probably soft for 11a, but that's another discussion.

The climbing at wall of justice is totally overhung and with big moves. Nothing that you are terribly stretching for, but very, very big moves. At 5'4'' she will probably hate Officer Friendly or Hanging Judge.

Wall of Justice: Hanging Judge is not height dependent IMO. There are enough options for feet that short people can do it. Officer Friendly is easier if tall, but doable for short people.

Wall of the 90s: Reefer Madness is totally height dependent and will be harder for someone 5'4". The crux move is fairly big, and short people can't use the decent footholds tall people can. I don't recall Curvaceous having anything reachy. Hey Good Lookin' is on the harder end of 5.11 but I also don't recall that being height dependent.

Crystal Tower (CCC): Skippin' Stones, don't think it's height dependent.

Anarchy Wall: Monkey Wrench, a little devious and weird, but not reachy. Slopey, climb it in the shade and on a cool morning.

Shelf: tons of stuff, and you can climb in the shade there. Not any hotter than Front Range.

I'm 5'9" with an average reach, but often climb with shorter people.

I think she'll be fine on Hanging Judge, but I haven't been on it for a couple of years. I personally wouldn't recommend Reefer Madness. I find it quite reachy with a 5'6" reach and thus found it hard for 11a!

Great suggestions, keep 'em coming! Thanks!

I've always heard of Reefer Madness as being pretty tough if you're short. She definitely likes the vert to slightly overhanging techy routes, so we'll check it out. I think she's been on it in the past, but don't know how it went.

Here are a few recommendations from someone who's 5'3".

I think some hold(s) may have come off Reefer Madness, making it reachier than it originally was. (I TR'ed it once pretty easily, but backed off a few years later when I tried to lead it. I don't think it was merely psychological.)

I second the recommendation of Lust at Avalon. Also recommend Supernatural (though the bolts were pre-clipped, which may have made the clips easier).

Free Willie on Animal World.

Tales of Power, 2nd pitch, Upper Dream Canyon (friction!). (I followed the 1st pitch without a problem, but can't say how it would have felt on the sharp end.)

wendy weiss wrote: Free Willie on Animal World. Tales of Power, 2nd pitch,

I must have missed something on Free Willie. I'm 5'8" and I thought it was a long way to the jug above the 4th bolt.

Bump...

Any other suggestions?

Emil Briggs wrote: I must have missed something on Free Willie. I'm 5'8" and I thought it was a long way to the jug above the 4th bolt.

I find free willie reachy. In fact many of the routes at animal world seem reachy. Exceptions possibly being joint venture, the first pitch of global gorilla and the first pitch of pit bull prowser.

If you can tolerate the Canal Zone mayhem, then walking with a ghost. Arête phobia is ok iirc, cut loose contrived and very height dependent.
The twigjt zone has good 11s and I don't remember bad reaches, but it's been a while.

Hope you guys have fun!

Mark E Dixon wrote:If you can tolerate the Canal Zone mayhem, then walking with a ghost.

This is a really good route, though atypical of many sport routes. Very thin, balancy, steep slab. So if that suits her strengths, she might love it. It's a few degrees slabbier than I personally enjoy whipping on repeatedly though; YMMV.

Mark E Dixon wrote: I find free willie reachy...

Watching shorter folks on it, it always looked that way.

Mark E Dixon wrote:If you can tolerate the Canal Zone mayhem

Doubt I could. I've looked over there as I drive up the canyon, and always cringe. But sometimes you just embrace it and wade in for a good route...

Just came across Twilight Zone the other day. Looks pretty cool! Don't think I'll be getting her up there though. Ever since I get nailed with a rock (story here), she hasn't been real into Animal World or loose rock. It sounds like Twilight Zone is still cleaning up, so I'll have to go check it out with someone else...

Rich Farnham wrote: Watching shorter folks on it, it always looked that way. Doubt I could. I've looked over there as I drive up the canyon, and always cringe. But sometimes you just embrace it and wade in for a good route... Just came across Twilight Zone the other day. Looks pretty cool! Don't think I'll be getting her up there though. Ever since I get nailed with a rock (story here), she hasn't been real into Animal World or loose rock. It sounds like Twilight Zone is still cleaning up, so I'll have to go check it out with someone else...

A lot of the routes at Canal Zone are really quite good. If you haven't been there and can get there on a weekday it is really worth going at least once. Your sweetie can be the crag hard woman and inspire others.