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Routes in Dave's Dinghy
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Heads you win T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Route One T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Mark Powell, Beverly Powell, and Don Lauria |
| Page Views: | 676 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Aug 24, 2008 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
This is an enjoyable route that is well protected by the Needles standards. There are still a handful of runouts on easier rock.
Scramble up to gully and pull on to the rock from a large chockstone. Angle up to the right and clip a fixed pin, which can be backed up with a large brass nut. Climb the face to the left until you can join the arete and a nut placement (#10 HB). Make a 5.10a move on the arete, even though the bolt tempts you to the right. After the bolt, angle left to the arete and place a flared #1 camalot which can be backup up with a small ball nut. Clip the final bolt (crux) and angle right on easier rock to a 2 bolt anchor.
Scramble up to gully and pull on to the rock from a large chockstone. Angle up to the right and clip a fixed pin, which can be backed up with a large brass nut. Climb the face to the left until you can join the arete and a nut placement (#10 HB). Make a 5.10a move on the arete, even though the bolt tempts you to the right. After the bolt, angle left to the arete and place a flared #1 camalot which can be backup up with a small ball nut. Clip the final bolt (crux) and angle right on easier rock to a 2 bolt anchor.
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