Towards right side of cliff, between Stranger Than Friction (to left) and Use It Or Luge It (to right)is a shallow water groove. Below the groove is a log footbridge. Go up a forested ramp before the bridge to a belay spot shared with Use It. 1. Climb up and left towards the groove, which is more of a black streak down low. The first bolt is a good ways out and is right of the streak. Cross the streak to the next bolt, then head back right and up to a large feature. Climb through this to the right, then up past another bolt to the large slash about 200 feet up. 5.8 2. Pull the slash at the broken flake into the crux section. A couple bolts interspersed with gear get you to a right rising ramp. Climb it to its end, then follow the crystal sidewalk left to the belay. 5.10+ 3. Climb more or less straight up past a few bolts to a belay beneath another slashing feature. 5.9 4. Step left into the groove and climb it until the vegetation. Step right to the face and go straight up to the last set of rings. You will pass a bolt out to the right. This is part of the girdle traverse of LK. 5.9
Between Stranger Than Friction and Use It Or Luge It above a log footbridge.
Superb face and friction climbing. Double ropes would be nice but not essential.
A must do LK route!
By andjoely From: Menlo Park, CA Apr 21, 2012 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+20E3 5b
incredibly awesome holds on the 2nd pitch and good climbing all the way up. One of the best routes on the cliff to do when most of the other stuff is wet cause this thing drys out almost instantly after wet weather. Highly reccomended.
By Jeff Mekolites From: HOTlanta, GA Feb 25, 2014 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Really liked the route...although I found myself doing a bit of wandering in places trying to find the correct (easiest) path. The second pitch holds some of the best climbing on the route. I also thought the climbing was very consistent/sustained...not alot of easy stuff with a move or two. Mostly the other way around...lots of sustained climbing with a few easy moves and some harder moves. Also...the foot bridge is gone..if you are looking for a point of reference. Light rack to #1 C4 covered us - don't think I places anything over a #1.
By TomCaldwell From: Clemson, S.C. Mar 2, 2014 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+20E3 5b
Great climb! I would skip the last pitch. It is very dirty.