Route Number 9  M5 R

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Type:  Mixed, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Consensus:  M5 [details] FA:  ? Season:  Winter Submitted By:  Brian Tessier on Dec 6, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Lover Leap 11-18-09
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Description 

The route ascends a corner/gully system to the right of the main buttress and left of the "Licorice Reunion Buttress". Approach via the scree gully and belay at a pine tree below a obvious corner with a small roof.

Description based on conditions found.

P1. Climb up a right-leaning slab with an overlap on the left to a shallow left trending gully. Follow this gully to a belay at 2 bolts w/ slings on the right hand wall. M4+ R.

P2. From the belay, climb out left to a V-shaped corner place a #3 Camalot under an overlap and then ascend the corner (look for fixed wired stopper). Leader needs to be creative with gear on this section. Continue up a shallow, snow-filled gully to its end, climb a 12' high rock wall on the right to a large ledge. Multiple choices for a belay anchor. M5+.

P3. From the belay ledge, look over to climber's right and locate a large, left-facing corner and move the belay if necessary. Climb this corner to the top of the buttress. Jon and I did not climb this due to adverse weather conditions, too warm and delaminating ice. WI4-M4?

Protection 

Standard alpine rack to #3 Camalot. Add small TCUs, thin blades and baby angles.

Descent:
P1. Anchor is fixed, 2 bolts with slings.
P2. We rapped off of a slung boulder from large ledge.
P3. Look for fixed anchor with slings.

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BETA PHOTO: Route #9.	Pitch 1.	Pitch 2.