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Route Number 5 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob and Carrie Robertson
Page Views: 225
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Jan 1, 2002

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Description 

This is an awesome route, and is easily one of the best on the Titanic. Too bad the name is not known. It is the 5th route from the left as you approach the bottom of the wall from the creek. This is known as the Bear Bottom Wall.

The route begins in a left facing corner. The first bolt can be clipped from a good perch inside the corner. Make hard moves right and up, over a small roof and past 3 more bolts through another devious, left facing corner. Then the route lays back for a few feet before the next bit of business. Climb the vertical wall above on increasingly thin holds. A desperate lunge leads to a brief respite encountered on a ledge that makes a fine perch for sitting on. Looming above is the final roof that must be solved. Fortunately, the roof has large holds and spectacular exposure. Once above the roof, a short, but powerful section leads to the anchors. Save some gas for the final clip. Overall, this climb is very clean and interesting. Enjoy.

Protection 

You will need 11 quickdraws and a rope to climb the route and clip into the anchors.


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By Ben Bruestle
From: Pueblo, CO
Sep 18, 2002

This route is "Bumper to Bumper".