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Darby Canyon
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Route K 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Olsen Brothers
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 4, 2007

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Description 

Thuggy, fun climbing - different and more powerful than the slab climbs near by. Crux is off the ground and clipping the first bolt. The second bolt is oddly placed, and requires an extra move left to clip. After that, straight up to big holds, and then left to the third bolt. Continue straight up big holds and past another both to the anchor.

Location 

About 40 feet right of where the approach trail hits the wall. Steep, somewhat shattered appearing rock at the bottom with some big huecos above. The anchor is quite a ways down from the top.

Protection 

Bolts to bolted anchor.


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By Sam Miller
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 17, 2012

This is actually route 9 from the "Sweet Spots" book by Jerry Painter and Matt TeNgaio. This route is actually a pretty stout .11d (almost .12a in my opinion), but definitely harder than .11a. Super good. Thuggy start is a good description. Weird placement for second bolt. I didn't even clip it.