Just left of Teenage Wristband is a wide crack. Climb the crack and gain a ledge near a pine tree. Fire up the steep face making several hard moves to gain a short left-facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor on the left. Watch out for loose rock on the ledge by the anchor.
By slim Administrator Apr 13, 2006 rating: 5.10a/b6a+19VI+19E2 5b
Climbed this route yesterday. Pretty fun route, minus the last stretch to the anchors. We agreed that it was similar to a waitress bringing you a nice beer and then pouring mustard into it. The 11a/b seemed way off, comparing it to Enchanted Porkfist, Crack's On Top, Muted By Reality, I Scare Myself, Rip It, Clyde, etc. We felt it was more similar in difficulty to Puddle of Holes (10a) (and we didn't cheat out to the right to the crack either). At the crux clip, if the crimp breaks, you're gonna have broken legs. If the chopper flake on the way to the anchor blows, you're dead. Overall, we enjoyed the route though.
Agree that the top has some junky rock. It seemed contrived NOT to head right into the obvious flake system, there's great holds that take you directly into it. Surprisingly the rock through the mini-overlap before the final dihedral is quite solid.