|The Dark Side
Just left of Teenage Wristband is a wide crack. Climb the crack and gain a ledge near a pine tree. Fire up the steep face making several hard moves to gain a short left-facing corner. Climb up the corner to a two bolt anchor on the left. Watch out for loose rock on the ledge by the anchor.
Eight bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
Apr 13, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
Climbed this route yesterday. Pretty fun route, minus the last stretch to the anchors. We agreed that it was similar to a waitress bringing you a nice beer and then pouring mustard into it. The 11a/b seemed way off, comparing it to Enchanted Porkfist, Crack's On Top, Muted By Reality, I Scare Myself, Rip It, Clyde, etc. We felt it was more similar in difficulty to Puddle of Holes (10a) (and we didn't cheat out to the right to the crack either). At the crux clip, if the crimp breaks, you're gonna have broken legs. If the chopper flake on the way to the anchor blows, you're dead. Overall, we enjoyed the route though.
|By Deaun Schovajsa|
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Climbed this yesterday. Dirty, unaesthetic and loose blocks all around the anchor. Many better routes to do on the Darkside.
|By Brent Apgar|
From: Out of the Loop
Aug 19, 2012
Agree that the top has some junky rock. It seemed contrived NOT to head right into the obvious flake system, there's great holds that take you directly into it.
Surprisingly the rock through the mini-overlap before the final dihedral is quite solid.