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Route beta request @ Skinner's Butte, Eugene,OR
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Mar 16, 2013
Hi,

I'm looking for beta on the crack immediately right of Satisfaction. Anything you got is good, I can't find it in any of the guidebooks I've got.

I'm not talking about Crack-a-no-go which is one crack further over, to the left of Limpdick afaik. The crack I am talking about starts in the left facing dihedral formed by the column that Crack-a-no-go is on and goes to the top.


It's pretty hard for me, it'd be nice to know what I'm flailing around on.

Thanks
JoeR
From Eugene, OR
Joined Aug 22, 2011
26 points
Mar 17, 2013
I'm not sure it's a line. Ask Alan Amos (the old barefoot climber) he was the primary resource for the Orton Guide. Other potentially knowledgeable folks are Bill S. or Pete H. I think you're talking about starting up the lie-back immediately right of Satisfaction to the a ledge w/a brutally thin splitter above? Ask Pete, but as far as I know, (not really having climbed there for years) it hasn't been done. Max Tepfer
From Bend, OR
Joined Oct 23, 2007
1,577 points
Mar 17, 2013
Thanks for the reply Max

I asked Alan about it today. He didn't know other than it had been aided a few times.

I'm assuming that it has been done at least on TR with all the sick strong people who've come through the columns over the years.

It would make a really nasty scary lead with that sharp edge of the Short column right there. I don't think I'd ever go for a lead.

I'll shoot Bill and Pete an e-mail, they were next on my list.


As far as the route, the moves mostly go and I've cleaned it up pretty well. It's there for everybody to try now that it is cleaned and brushed. Crack a no go is also cleaned and brushed.
JoeR
From Eugene, OR
Joined Aug 22, 2011
26 points


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