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{10} Mordor
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Angle of the Dangle 
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Route 66 
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Step Child 

Route 66 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FFA by Phillip Hranicka & Kevin Evanson 6/11/06
Page Views: 296
Submitted By: another Chad on Aug 4, 2013
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Route 66

Description 

Route 66 starts by reaching above a cave and hoisting yourself up on good holds but not much for feet (5.10c). Rather than clipping the first bolt, many prefer to start further right on good holds and place gear in the crack. Once over the cave, a short section of easy climbing will take you to a huge ledge and an anchor. Clip the anchor with a runner and continue into the meat of the climb. Mostly good crimps and edges on a slighly overhanging face will generate a healthy pump if the grade is near your limit. There is a good rest near the top which will allow some recovery. Get back what you can because there's still quite a bit of hard climbing left to go and some tricky sequences. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground with a couple feet to spare.


Location 

Route 66 is on the face to the left of Mordor Wall (shared with No Nuts and Dad's Nuts). Look for the short cave and a line of bolts.


Protection 

About 11 bolts. Bring a runner to clip into the midway anchor. A pink tricam protects the cave crack if starting off to the right.



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By another Chad
Aug 5, 2013

One of the best 5.11's at Ozone!


Chad

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Sep 11, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

What is the nice bolted climb to the left of Route 66? It seems to go at 5.10- or so.

By another Chad
Sep 13, 2013

The next (bolted) line to the left is Getting Your Kicks. Loose rock and 5.11a. In my opinion, it's a poor recent addition to the wall.


Chad