Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Upper Broadloaves - North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Interceptor T 
Route 66 T 
Savage Attack! T 
Stolen Thunder T 
Tide Country T 

Route 66 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 597
Submitted By: grk10vq on Jul 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Route 66


A nice adventure route at a forgiving grade, Route 66 is a quality line that ascends solid rock using jams, finger locks, stemming, and face climbing.

Climb an open dihedral for about 35 feet to a grunting finish at a resting ledge. Traverse left on this ledge and gain a upward, right leaning hand crack. Climb this crack to another resting ledge (mind your rope drag). From this point, move right on the ledge to a heavily featured face. Climb this unprotected for 15 feet to a good stance. Build an anchor on top.

Descend via a walk towards the east and rap off of the Two Bits anchor. If that anchor is busy you can also walk over and rap Stretch Marks or take on a "heady" scramble to down-climb on the northwest end.


Route 66 if the first route you encounter when reaching the Northern Upper Breadloaves. It climbs the obvious dihedral starting straight from the ground and sits just left of a wide crack/chimney.


Single rack to about 3", a few extra hand sized cams would be nice, and good selection of runners.

Comments on Route 66 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'm sandbagging the stars on this one but only because this route needs to be climbed by more people! If it cleaned up it would be an awesome climb that stays in the shade most of the day and climbs some of the most beautifully moss colored rock I've ever seen. We made the climb all that more enjoyable by setting up a belay at the first rest ledge before the right angling hand crack, and climbed the route in three pitches with three people, sort of. The climbing offers a funky, awkward stemmy to mantle crux after a stretch of mellow dihedral climbing. A fun moderate route in the shade, and super picturesque to boot.
By Scott Thalacker
From: Logan, UT
Oct 2, 2015

The "upward, right leaning handcrack", just where the climber is in the photo above, was at least #4 C4 size (too big for fists). I must have been missing some stemming or something?

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!