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Upper Broadloaves - North
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Route 66 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 452
Submitted By: grk10vq on Jul 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Route 66

Description 

A nice adventure route at a forgiving grade, Route 66 is a quality line that ascends solid rock using jams, finger locks, stemming, and face climbing.

Climb an open dihedral for about 35 feet to a grunting finish at a resting ledge. Traverse left on this ledge and gain a upward, right leaning hand crack. Climb this crack to another resting ledge (mind your rope drag). From this point, move right on the ledge to a heavily featured face. Climb this unprotected for 15 feet to a good stance. Build an anchor on top.

Descend via a walk towards the east and rap off of the Two Bits anchor. If that anchor is busy you can also walk over and rap Stretch Marks or take on a "heady" scramble to down-climb on the northwest end.

Location 

Route 66 if the first route you encounter when reaching the Northern Upper Breadloaves. It climbs the obvious dihedral starting straight from the ground and sits just left of a wide crack/chimney.

Protection 

Single rack to about 3", a few extra hand sized cams would be nice, and good selection of runners.


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By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'm sandbagging the stars on this one but only because this route needs to be climbed by more people! If it cleaned up it would be an awesome climb that stays in the shade most of the day and climbs some of the most beautifully moss colored rock I've ever seen. We made the climb all that more enjoyable by setting up a belay at the first rest ledge before the right angling hand crack, and climbed the route in three pitches with three people, sort of. The climbing offers a funky, awkward stemmy to mantle crux after a stretch of mellow dihedral climbing. A fun moderate route in the shade, and super picturesque to boot.