Login with Facebook
The Membrane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
26 S 
Andy's Route S 
Bad Faith S 
Between The Lines S 
Butterfingers S 
Caress of Steel S 
Drop Zone S 
Drunken Midget S 
Flight Fright S 
Kitchen Sink S 
License To Thrill S 
Little Big Wall S 
Mandela S 
On There S 
Reverse Traverse S 
Rincon S 
Riptide S 
Route 66 S 
Steel Monkey S 
Unknown S 

Route 66 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 2,580
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Second roof crux on Route 66 5.12a. Photo by Peri...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Just left of License To Thrill is a stiff problem that fires up to the left side of a roof. Route 66 has pumpy, fingery climbing on small pockets and edges. Crux was a bit below the roof and needed good contact strength - seems like you are always on your arms. The roof sequence is described as bizarre in the Ruckman/Ruckman guide. Tricky yes, with an overhead bolt to start, but it runs out once you stand up over the roof. Definitely worth a burn.


8 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos of Route 66 Slideshow Add Photo
Route 66 5.12a
BETA PHOTO: Route 66 5.12a

Comments on Route 66 Add Comment
Show which comments
By richard magill
Aug 13, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Awesome route - tricky finish.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This has become one of my favs in AF. This climb has 2 distinct sections. The lower overhanging part gets the arms burning with hard moves in between good holds, the footwork (if you can find any feet) is the real puzzler. The lower part crux is at the 4th bolt. After you get past the pump on the lower half you are rewarded with a no hands rest. The upper half crux is getting past the large roof (i wont tell you how, you get to figure it out). Then you get to a jug and move left to some crimpers. This part is tricky because they are hard to see with some sloping feet. You finish it out on a couple of great jugs.

This climb is well protected except when you place the draw at the big roof. Go up left on jugs and clip it with a long draw with a locking biner at the bolt. The angle on this draw on a fall tends to open up gates.

The top chains have been replaced with mussy hooks for easy lowering. Its a great climb.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Jul 10, 2010

Anchor is chains again; no more mussy hooks.

(So don't forget two draws for the chains, like I did.)
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jul 11, 2010

Two for two...second set of mussy hooks I put in AF Cyn, second set kifed.
By Andy McAdams
Aug 25, 2011

Just sent this route today. Their are draws at the top for lowering as of today. Having climbed this route multiple times, I think that the best aspect of this route is that there are many different betas to the cruxes.
By Captain Crusher
From: Salt Lake City
May 9, 2012

Bail biners at the anchors are severely worn. I would recommend not using them.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!