Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Membrane
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
26 
Andy's Route 
Bad Faith 
Between The Lines 
Butterfingers 
Caress of Steel 
Drop Zone 
Drunken Midget 
Flight Fright 
Kitchen Sink 
License To Thrill 
Little Big Wall 
Mandela 
On There 
Reverse Traverse 
Rincon 
Riptide 
Route 66 
Steel Monkey 
Unknown 

Route 66 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 2,113
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 23, 2003
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Second roof crux on Route 66 5.12a.

Photo by...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just left of License To Thrill is a stiff problem that fires up to the left side of a roof. Route 66 has pumpy, fingery climbing on small pockets and edges. Crux was a bit below the roof and needed good contact strength - seems like you are always on your arms. The roof sequence is described as bizarre in the Ruckman/Ruckman guide. Tricky yes, with an overhead bolt to start, but it runs out once you stand up over the roof. Definitely worth a burn.


Protection 

8 bolts, chain anchors.



Photos of Route 66 Slideshow Add Photo
<a href='/v/route-66/105739952'>Route 66</a> 5.12a
BETA PHOTO: Route 66 5.12a
Comments on Route 66 Add Comment
Show which comments
By richard magill
Aug 13, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Awesome route - tricky finish.

By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Aug 19, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

This has become one of my favs in AF. This climb has 2 distinct sections. The lower overhanging part gets the arms burning with hard moves in between good holds, the footwork (if you can find any feet) is the real puzzler. The lower part crux is at the 4th bolt. After you get past the pump on the lower half you are rewarded with a no hands rest. The upper half crux is getting past the large roof (i wont tell you how, you get to figure it out). Then you get to a jug and move left to some crimpers. This part is tricky because they are hard to see with some sloping feet. You finish it out on a couple of great jugs.

This climb is well protected except when you place the draw at the big roof. Go up left on jugs and clip it with a long draw with a locking biner at the bolt. The angle on this draw on a fall tends to open up gates.

The top chains have been replaced with mussy hooks for easy lowering. Its a great climb.

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 10, 2010

Anchor is chains again; no more mussy hooks.

(So don't forget two draws for the chains, like I did.)

By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Jul 11, 2010

Two for two...second set of mussy hooks I put in AF Cyn, second set kifed.

By Andy McAdams
Aug 25, 2011

Just sent this route today. Their are draws at the top for lowering as of today. Having climbed this route multiple times, I think that the best aspect of this route is that there are many different betas to the cruxes.

By Captain Crusher
From: Salt Lake City
May 9, 2012

Bail biners at the anchors are severely worn. I would recommend not using them.