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> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Old Woman
> Old Woman - W Face
Route 499
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.6 from 108
votes
Routes in The Old Woman - West Face
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Band Saw T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Bridwell-Sustad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cavity, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dandelion T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dandelion Stem TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dandelion Wine TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dogleg T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Cross T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Double Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Iron Man's Traverse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Little Old Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lower Band T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Middle Band T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Northwest Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Orphan T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 499 T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sexy Grandma S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sexy Grandpa T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Treinte Anos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,863 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 13, 2001 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a fun and hard route that will prepare you for using all of those J-tree friction holds that you would not think could keep you on. The crux is relatively short and the climb may be a little easy at the given grade, at least if you TR it. In the attached picture, the line is essentially where the climber is rapping off.
Approach and begin climbing as for Double Cross. When Double-Cross moves up and left, Route 499 moves out right to a set of seams just above a dark bulge. These opening moves where the line separates are relatively easy (5.8) and I suppose more than one non-vigilant leader has been mistakenly sucked onto the wrong line. I would not want to lead this line though, as the climbing gets more difficult and insecure as the route progresses, and protection is not be available. Climb the seam to its top, about 45' off of the start, and continue straight up on the face above, past a horizontal and onward through a few more short seams, just to the right of a dark section of rock. This is the crux of the route. Crimp, smear and sidepull. From the crux, head up through a shallow concave feature to the ledge/belay as shared with Double Cross.
To descend, rap from the anchors above the route.
Side-note: I tried this right after applying sunscreen on a hot sunny day and got to a crux crimp that just would not stick, as my sweaty-oily hands baked and slipped each time. The rock was so good and the friction was so high (with the exception of on my hands) that I got the crux with a contortionist-looking toe-hook to the right, in front of my face, which held me for a dead-point! An subsequent ascent on my next trip to J-tree made this feel much better, however, WITHOUT the sunscreen.
Approach and begin climbing as for Double Cross. When Double-Cross moves up and left, Route 499 moves out right to a set of seams just above a dark bulge. These opening moves where the line separates are relatively easy (5.8) and I suppose more than one non-vigilant leader has been mistakenly sucked onto the wrong line. I would not want to lead this line though, as the climbing gets more difficult and insecure as the route progresses, and protection is not be available. Climb the seam to its top, about 45' off of the start, and continue straight up on the face above, past a horizontal and onward through a few more short seams, just to the right of a dark section of rock. This is the crux of the route. Crimp, smear and sidepull. From the crux, head up through a shallow concave feature to the ledge/belay as shared with Double Cross.
To descend, rap from the anchors above the route.
Side-note: I tried this right after applying sunscreen on a hot sunny day and got to a crux crimp that just would not stick, as my sweaty-oily hands baked and slipped each time. The rock was so good and the friction was so high (with the exception of on my hands) that I got the crux with a contortionist-looking toe-hook to the right, in front of my face, which held me for a dead-point! An subsequent ascent on my next trip to J-tree made this feel much better, however, WITHOUT the sunscreen.
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