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The slabby face between two cracks left of Sardonic Smile
hosts a contrived 5.11+ sport climb.
This route requires bearing down on small crimps and occasional pockets as you solve a thin face puzzle, while maintaining the discipline to avoid the cracks on either side of the 5' slab you're climbing on. (Grab a crack, even once, and you're downrated to 5.9, or 5.10 or or something like that.) The crux is at a thin section near the last bolt. This climb is less than vertical so it isn't as pumpy as other 5.11s at BONP. Using the cracks/aretes makes for an ok 5.9/5.10 sport climb.
You can TR this route from the anchor, which can can be reached by climbing the 5.8 crack climb immediately to its left
, or by climbing the 5.10d sport climb
on the arete to the left.
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
By Sky Sjue
From: Santa Fe
Jan 29, 2013
When I can simultaneously use both cracks while center-punching past the bolts, in my estimation that's a bit too contrived for me to care. But it was still fun.