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The slabby face between two cracks left of Sardonic Smile hosts a contrived 5.11+ sport climb.
Thin moves on this route require bearing down on small and sometimes painful crimps and occasional pockets as you solve a thin face mental puzzle, while maintaining the discipline to avoid the cracks on either side of the 5' slab you're climbing on. (Grab a crack, even once, and you're downrated to 5.9, or 5.10 or or something like that.) The crux is at a thin section near the last bolt that requires tricky footwork to a reach. Using the cracks/aretes makes for an ok 5.9/5.10 sport climb.
Because of the low-angle aspect of the climb, this route is less pumpy than other 5.11s at BONP, so you have time to figure out which tiny hold to use next.
You can TR this route from the anchor, which can can be reached by climbing the 5.8 crack climb immediately to its left, or by climbing the 5.10d sport climb on the arete to the left.
If you know the FA info or the correct name, let me know.
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
|By Sky Sjue|
Jan 29, 2013
When I can simultaneously use both cracks while center-punching past the bolts, in my estimation that's a bit too contrived for me to care. But it was still fun.